Napeleshe Mafuku Asatu Mu DR Congo Nkeba Kumona Musa wa Kapia — Ne Difuku ne Kipindi Nebishii Mwanda Ya Traffic

Miswele ya lupango ya Kinshasa pa nsaa inayi na akisi ya nkome yalukanga pakisho-pakisho kushii ndekelu. Taxi yami itala yellow yadyamine pakachi ka bakamio, bikala-bikala, ne bantu ba kwenda abatwiile bilamba bibindji bya bitende pa mitwe, kuswika napene. Mukwata-taxi, kipangula kyadi kya kubetamina Pascal, wakunkulwile windo, watwele mu kutwaya na mupano-phone card mu Français ya Kongo — kadi pabitale kulomba signal, anka mwanda mupano wapushishe amba Leopards badi bolwa kushinda mpa match imune mu nshibo ya Africa Cup, ne Pascal wasapule: 'Shi Leopards baposa gol umune, nakupana taxi ino.' Football nkyo kintu kya lwendo lukata mu Kinshasa. Traffic nkyo kya bubidi.

République démocratique du Congo ishala mu mutshima wa Afrika, mbuji-mbuyi Kinshasa, bantu babwanya pankama umune. Bunene bwandi bwa buloba nkwa bune kukila France, anka iji na nshila ipakilwe kupela kukila 3,000 km. Pabansapwilanga balunda ami ku nshibo amba nkaya mu DR Congo kumona musa wa kapia, bantu bavule badi na lwaluvula ludi: 'Uyukile amba Mount Nyiragongo lyakokomoke ku nfudi mu 2021, nshia?' Lwaluvula lukwabo lwadi: 'Uyukile amba traffic ya Kinshasa nkyabishi, nshia?' Napakye kufunda.

Kinshasa nbuloba bwa kuvwa kumpala kwa kumona. Pa nsaa ishano na akisi a dituku, radio ya mukalakashi itatwika kufutumuna rumba ya Kongo — mutemo wibwe-wibwe, ukatambisha, ukutakula hiplife ya Afrika ya Butunduluke ne salsa ya Cuba bibidi pamo bu bapeela. Pafika nsaa mwanda, kudila kwa soko kuvwa bu symphony ya bakumi — bapano-biya bya kalunga, bapano ba chargeur ya telefone, bakoti ba kala, bansusu ba lusuki, diwi dyoso dibandanga bwa kupeta lufu pa mulumbe umune. Pa mutwe, bwato ya lwishi lwa Congo yabulanga elaka yayo — kingi kilengelelo mpa kinapupila mu tulo tobe. Pa nsaa isambombo ya nkome, kwaya ya nshibo ya Nzambi itatwika kufunda — Congo nkyo buloba bukile bunene bwa Francophone ne nkumune kutompibwa mu Lusonge. Pa nsaa mwanda ya bufuku, bitungunuka bya football bifumangana kufuma ku windo ijule ya bar — dîna dya Chancel Mbemba dipungana bu ndinga ya ngoma ya Afrika. Napeleshe mafuku abidi mu uno mwibwele, kankambangapo kuivwa bu muntu ayele.

Lulendo lwa kusela kufuma Kinshasa nkushingika kwa kutinga. Kilometre nkama isatu dibolwa kutambuka pakachi ka nsaa mwanda ne ikumi ibidi — kulonda biine, kufikanga kwa myembe ibengana lulendo lwa bakamio, ne bumpite bwa katanka ya mafuta ikumana. Namanishe mufuko mwashi wa makondo oba bakashilwe pa lulendo — akumanga panze, bofu munda, babasanyine na musoto ne pili-pili — ne lulendo lubadi kishinkumuke. Anka pankima nabandikile kumona kintu kimo: ku kibelo kyoso kya muloko, kwadi kibalwa kimo kya busende kibakumiwe, ne pa kibalwa kyoso, bana ba binyendo-buntu abakupanga football — bamo na byamba bya plastike, bamo na kilamba kya bipande bibudilwe pamo bu mupila, mpankima mupila wa bubine wanyunyunkye ukata bu-nsuki ukamonkesha bilamba bya mukati. Kibalwa kyoso kyadi World Cup ikeele. 'Bikalo bya batala' byadi bipasa bya plastike biapulwanga. Referee adi mbushi ipitanga.

Parc national des Virunga ishala ku lutandwa lwa Goma. Kwingila mu parc kukebenga mulami wa bukongo — kadi mwanda bwitanyine bwa banyama, anka mwanda ino mbela ibakumine kamo ne kamo na bulwaala bwa maboko kwa mafuku avule. Mulami adi kipangula mu myaka makumi asatu ya ntanshi ya kubetamina Emmanuel. Ku kikondo kyandi kya kulume, kitapa kya kala — '2008, chimpanzé. Kadi kwitanyina — wakatumbukile pangye fye kufuma mu mutshi, wantungunwike.' Wansapwile kino kisebe kasekele. Wafikile ku bipatelo bya kukinga banyama bakata kukila 120, wasapula amba shi bakupatanisha na musa wa kapia, banyama bakata badi bakile kushika.

Kunina Mount Nyiragongo kutwelanga ku mamita 1,989 peulu pa mwela, mu lubishi lwa bituka ku mutshima wa nshiba. Nsaa ibidi ya ntanshi: luji lumanyike na bumvu, makolo afwakilwe na bitaka. Bimela biyaluka kufuma ku bipapula bisanganyene kufika ku fern kufika ku mikole, panyuma — panyuma bibishi byonso byakimina. Peulu pa mamita nkama isatu, nshi yaluka mabwe a kapia a mukala. Kinete kyoso kipwanga, bu ukandiata makuki obafwishishe. Buta bwashintuluka kufuma ku madigré nkama isatu kufika ku mwanda. Mulomboledi wasapule: 'Leelo ubapasha bwakinyi nakusapwile amba ulate veste ikwabo.'

Nsaa ya akisi mwanda na kipindi ya nkome. Naimene ku lukunungu lwa mupuke. Diba dya lava dikile kukatakana mu nshilikishi dyabwilanga mamita nkama ibidi panshi — kadi mutala wa red, anka mutala umune ushwe dîna wa orange, bipela bya mukati sya diyu, mashi a Buloba abamwenye buntu-buntu ku luji. Kadi milami. Kadi lumuli apopwe luba bupanga na muntu. Lumuli apopwe lwadi adyo diba dya dikebu-bwe mabwe. Lupupo lwakokanga kufuma ku nshi ya mupuke, lushile sulfur ne kukunguluka kwa mwela munda — kakishi ndinga, vubula bu kinyungulushi kibamvwanga mu mifuba. Mundi ami wa kunina — mufundi wa kufuma Goma — wailale-shi pa mabwe ku lukunungu, kasapula kantu ku minite ikumi yonso. Panyuma wasapule kintu mu Lingala. Emmanuel washintulwile: 'Usapula amba — bu mwana nangulukilenga amba basinga ya kapia nkyabintu bya mitoto, bisonekwe mu mabuku. Leelo nkamwene kibamwene.'

Mu mashika a kunyemuka, makolo ami adinganga. Kadi mwanda bowa — creatine ne buteke. Bimulikye bimwanyike bya Goma byamwenkanga kwa-nshi, Lwishi lwa Congo lwadi mukanda wa mukala bufuku. Mwana mulume mukeela walombola ku binete byami bya kunina mukuna, wapwishe mu Français: 'Tu es allé au volcan?' Natumine mutwe. Wansoolele kidole peulu, wanyemene. Bipanyi bya football bya Goma bipakilwe na lwanyi lwa kapia — mupila ushintanga pa bulambe bushii bulondele, bwitabila bupela mwailo mutende. Anka bana ba pano babamanyike kubandulula. Mu DR Congo, ubandululanga nsaa yoso ku bushinteke bulondelanga mwailo wadingwa — shi nkyo football, traffic, nyi musa wa kapia na mukalanga.

Kubwela Kinshasa, mvula ya dituku yaponanga. Taxi ya Pascal yadyamine pa miswele ya lupango ibamumona — nyi kumo kadi kifwanine. Radio yadi yibangula rumba; wimbanga nayo bukeeya, ukupangilanga minwe ku kitambwelo. Namwipwishe shi epwandikila amba Leopards bebapose gol. Wasekele: 'Mu Congo, kukulupila nkwikala lusungo lwa kushala na moyo — lwa mushinga nansha bu kuyuka kushintula.' Panze pa windo, namwene kipangula na mupila ku binyendo, mema a mvula akatompoka ku mupila, ekwata lumuli. Radio ya Pascal yashintulukile kufuma ku rumba kufika ku bitungunuka bya match — Chancel Mbemba waposele gol kabidi. Wakunkulwile windo, wafundile kwa muntu shakayukile pa kikomo kya lulendo. Takudi muntu wapashile kyasapula. Anka bantu bonso basekele.