Uhambo lwase-Morocco: Ukungena ngempumlo kwidolophu ebomvu, kwiindawo zokudaya nakwi-Sahara

Ngesihlandlo sokuqala ndisenza isikhokelo sohambo lwase-Morocco, ndacinga ukuba imephu iza kuqala kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya sase-Casablanca, isuke e-Marrakech, e-Fes, e-Merzouga iye kufika e-Sahara. Ukufika ngokwenene ndaqonda ukuba i-Morocco ayivuleki ngeekhilomitha, iqala ngokuthatha umntu ngevumba. Umoya wangorhatya e-Marrakech uphephetha, kwimarike yeziqholo ivumba le-saffron, i-cumin, i-sinamoni kunye neentyatyambo ezomileyo kufana neqela labathengisi abathetha ngaxeshanye, kungekho mntu uvumayo. Ndahamba phakathi kweengxowa, umnini-venkile wandifaka entendeni yesandla i-Ras el Hanout, iziqholo ezingaphezu kwamashumi amathathu zixutywe, zinuka njengendlela endala esuka kwindlela yorhwebo yase-Sahara isiya phantsi kodonga lwedolophu ebomvu.

Ngokuhlwa, ibala lase-Jemaa el-Fnaa layitshisa le ndlela. Amalahle avutha ngemigca, amafutha enyama eyojiweyo awelela emlilweni, umsi omhlophe ugoqeka ngoko nangoko; ivumba le-fennel yesobho lenkumba, ivumba elitshileyo leesoseji, ubumnandi obusandul' ukusikwa be-orenji, konke kucinezelwe kwisandi samagubu kunye nokumemeza kwabathengisi. Omunye ukutsalela ukuba ujonge imenyu, omunye ukunika isitulo, omunye esuka emsini ehleka esithi "China?" Ndahlala kwisitulo seplastiki esinyikimayo, ndabukela inyama iphenduka, ngequbuliso ndaqonda ukuba kutheni abantu abaninzi besithi i-Marrakech iyadinisa: ayisiyo ngxolo, kodwa igcwele kakhulu, nomoya awunaso sithuba.

Ivumba lase-Fes lidala kakhulu, kwaye alinabubele. Iindlela ezincinci ze-Medina zimxinwa kangangokuba abantu ababini xa bedlula bayacathama, izandi zeenyathelo, iintsimbi zeedonki, umthandazo okude ubuyiselwa ziindonga ngokugqithiseleyo, ngokungathi uvakala ematyeni. Ukusondela kwindawo yokudaya izikhumba i-Chouara, umoya uyasinda, ivumba lesikhumba esiluhlaza kunye ne-ammonia lingena kuqala emakhaleni. Umnini-venkile yezikhumba ophahleni wayendinika i-mint, wayixinzelela phantsi kwempumlo. Ukuphola kwe-mint kwandisindisa okwethutyana, kodwa ngezantsi iibhafu zedayi zazisabomvu, tyheli, ne-blue, abasebenzi banyathela edayini ngeenyawo, ngokungathi ixesha alikaze litshintshe inkqubo. Ngelo xesha ndaqonda ukuba, imbali ayihlali ithule kwimyuziyam, ngamanye amaxesha iyakuhlaba ude ulile iinyembezi.

Ukuphuma kwindawo yokudaya, ndaphinda ndalahleka imizuzu engamashumi amathathu kwidolophu endala yase-Fes. Kwindlela encinci awuboni isibhakabhaka, kukho nje isandi esicocekileyo seevenkile zobhedu ezibetha iitreyi, ivumba lesonka eliphuma eziko, isandi sabantwana abakhaba ibhola libetha emnyango womthi. Umfana onxibe ijezi ebomvu yeqela lesizwe lase-Morocco wagidima wadlula ecaleni kwam, emqolo kubhalwe u-Hakimi. Loo jezi yayigugile luthuli lwendlela, kodwa yayifana ne-Morocco ngaphezu kwayo nayiphi na into entsha kwiivenkile zezipho. Ibhola apha ayibekelwanga ukuba abakhenkethi bayibukele, iyaqengqeleka kwi-echo yendlela, iyakhanya kumabonakude ezindlini zeti, kwaye kumzuzwana apho umntwana ejika ngesantya iba yinto yemihla ngemihla.

Ukusuka e-Fes ukuya emazantsi, ivumba liqala ukomiswa kancinci. Ukufika e-Merzouga, intlango yase-Sahara iphantse ingabi navumba. Ubushushu bemini bucocekile, isanti, ilanga, isibhakabhaka konke kufana nokukhutshwe amanzi; impumlo ngequbuliso iphelelwa ngumsebenzi, kushiyeke nje ityuwa emilebeni nokubilisa engubeni. Ubusuku ndilele ngaphandle kwenkampu ndibukele iinkwenkwezi, i-Milky Way isezantsi ngokungathi iza kuwela emva kwendunduma yesanti. Akukho msi wedolophu, akukho vumba libuhlungu lendawo yokudaya, akukho bunandi bemarike, kukho nje ivumba elincinci lenkuni etshisiweyo emlilweni wekampu. Umkhokeli wabeka iqula leti ecaleni kothuthu ukuze lishushu, iti ye-mint eyathululwa yayinomsi omncinci, ubumnandi buncitshiswe yintlango, bucekethekile, bufana nomoya ongahlaliyo. Eyona nto imangalisayo nge-Sahara, kukuba isusa onke amavumba, ikwenze uve okokuqala ukuphefumla kwakho.

Ukubuyela e-Riad, i-Morocco iphinda ikubuyisele amavumba. Ucango lomthi ongqingqwa lwavulwa lusuka kwindlela encinci, ngaphakathi lelinye ilizwe: ichibi elincinci, iindonga ze-mosaic, imithi ye-orenji kunye neentyatyambo ze-orenji ezikrakrayo. Ivumba leentyatyambo ze-orenji aliyilo ivumba lesiqholo elimnandi, kodwa lifumile, lihamba kancinci, njengomswakama unyuka ngeethayile. Umnini-ndlu wehotele weza neti ye-mint, iqula liphakanyiswe phezulu kakhulu, iti eluhlaza eglasini lenza amagwebu, iswekile ininzi kakhulu iphantse ibe kukungakhathali. Ndasela isiphu sokuqala ndafumanisa simnandi kakhulu, okwesibini ndaqala ukusamkela, okwesithathu ndaqonda: ubumnandi base-Morocco abukokunonga, kodwa yindlela yokwamkela iindwendwe.

Into eyandenza ndikhumbule obu bunandi ngokwenene, yayiyi-tajine. Isiciko sodongwe savulwa, ivumba lenyama yegusha, itswele, iiapricots ezomisiweyo, isinamoni kunye ne-ginger ephekwe ngokucothayo kwaphuma ngaxeshanye, kuchasene ngokupheleleyo nokungxama kwenyama eyojiweyo yebala. I-tajine ayikuxhakamfuli, ishiya inyama ithambe kwincindi yayo, ishiya ubumnandi beziqhamo kunye nobushushu beziqholo buvumelane ngokucothayo. Abantu abatsha ababesecaleni babejonge iifowuni zabo bebukele amabonakude ebhola, u-Hakimi eqala ukubaleka ngasekunene, wonke umntu etafileni wathi "yho" ngaxeshanye. Umnini-venkile waphakamisa amehlo wabukela, wahleka wathi uligorha lesizwe, wazalelwa e-Spain, kodwa xa ebaleka uyingane yase-Morocco. Esho, wasipha iti kwakhona, iqula litsalwa phezulu kakhulu, ngokungathi usayina eso sigwebo.

Eli lizwi landenza ndakhumbula iNdebe yeHlabathi ka-2022. Emva kokuba i-Morocco ifike kumdlalo owandulela owamagqibela kankqoyi, ihlabathi alisokuze liphinde libukele ibhola lase-Morocco ngamehlo amadala. Kwakungeyonanto nje nje "intsomi yehashe elimnyama"; yayifana nevumba elihleli ezingutywini emva kokuba umsi webala unyamalele. U-Bounou evimba amapenalty, u-Amrabat egubungela umbindi webala, u-Hakimi ekhaba ipenalty yepanenka ekhupha i-Spain, loo mifanekiso yaphinda yatsala ubuni obabusasazeke e-Madrid, e-Paris, e-Amsterdam nase-Casablanca ndawonye. Ibhola apha ayisiyondawo yokhenketho, kodwa iza kuvela ngequbuliso kumabonakude ekhefi, kwirediyo yeteksi, kwiijezi zabantwana.

Ngomnye ubusuku bokugqibela phambi kokushiya i-Marrakech, ndaphinda ndabuyela e-Jemaa el-Fnaa. Umsi wawumkhulu njengangaphambili, iivenkile zenyama eyojiweyo zazixinene kakhulu, iti ye-mint yayisemnandi kakhulu. Kodwa ndandisele ndikwazi ukwahlula iileya kwisiphithiphithi: kuqala ubushushu bemarike yeziqholo, emva koko ukuphola kwe-mint yendawo yokudaya, emva koko ubushushu obomileyo obungenavumba be-Sahara, emva koko ukufuma kweentyatyambo ze-orenji ze-Riad, ukuphekwa ngokucothayo kwe-tajine, iswekile emazantsi ekomityi yeti. Into engalibalekiyo ngohambo lwase-Morocco ayisiyondawo ethile yokufota, kodwa kukuba la mavumba azilungelelanise emzimbeni abe yindlela. Ucinga ukuba uhambe ilizwe lonke, kodwa eneneni likuhanjise ngevumba.