Tamsizzelt n Lmeɣrib: Aɛeddi s wanzaren ɣef temdint tazeggaɣt, tawwurt n usserwes d Tneẓruft

Tikkelt tamezwarut i d-snulfuɣ afaylu n tamsizzelt n Lmeɣrib, ɣileɣ dakken tkarḍa ad tebdu seg ufrag n Tigemmi n Ccix, seg Mrrakc, Fas, Merzouga, ad teddu ar Tneẓruft. Mi d-riɣ s tidet, fehmeɣ dakken Lmeɣrib ur d-ittwabna ara s yikilumitren, izwar akken ad k-id-yaweḍ s rrwayeḥ. Tameddit n Mrrakc, mi d-yekker uḍu, ssuq n tsaṛin, azɛefran, lkemmum, lqerfa d lwerd iquren, rrwayeḥ-nsent am wakken d yiwen n yiɣerruba n yineccayen i d-yettmeslayen akk deg yiwet n tizi, ula d yiwen ur iǧǧi wayeḍ. Ttedduɣ-d s ləɛqel gar n yiɣerfan, bab n tḥanut yessers-d deg ufus-iw yiwen n weqbuḍ n Ras el Hanout, kṛaḍ n tmerwin tsaṛin mezzint-d s tneɛrit, ṣṭṭin-d am yiwen n webrid aqbur i d-yeddun seg Tneẓruft ar leḥyuḍ n temdint tazeggaɣt.

Mi d-yewweḍ yiḍ, winan n Jemaa el-Fnaa ceɛɛlen abrid-a. Tijjumin ttuɣalen-d yiwen s yiwen, zzit n tnegluft n yizmar yeɣli-d deg times, ddexxan d amellal yettali-d s tazzla; rrwayeḥ n teflut n wuccen, rrwayeḥ n tnegluft n lmeqes, rrwayeḥ n tazizawt n ugellum n limun, akk ttwaɛeffan-d ɣef ddeqqa d usutuy. Llan wid i k-id-ittawin ad twaliḍ utem n wucci, llan wid i k-id-ittawin amkan n wqimi, llan wid i k-id-iḍeqqen seg ddexxan: "Ccinwa?" Qqimeɣ ɣef yiwen n wemkan n ucebbak i d-yettḥuzzun, walaɣ tawilalt n tnegluft tettwaɣleb, dɣa dɣa fehmeɣ maɣef aṭas n yemdanen i d-yeqqaren dakken Mrrakc tettɛeyyi: mačči d lehdeṛ, d akken teččuṛ akk, ula d aḍu ur yesɛi ara ilem.

Fas, rrwayeḥ-is tiqburin, gar-asent ur tɛeṭṭilent ara. Inacurin n Lmendina d tiqennayin arma sin n yemdanen mi ara ttemḥazen, imeɛbad, ineẓẓanen n tcebbakt n uɣyul, taẓallit n tmerrit, akk ttwaṭṭfen-d sɣur leḥyuḍ yiwen s yiwen, am wakken ttemɛawanent-d deg yiẓra. Yal mi ara tqeṛṛbeḍ ɣer twewwurt n usserwes n ilm n Chouara, aḍu ula d netta yettḥulfu, rrwayeḥ n ilm ifessexen d nammunya zik i k-id-igemren s wanzaren. Bab n tḥanut n ilm ɣef lberj yesɛedda-yi-d-d ikerrifen n tsekkurt, a ten-iḍfḍeɣ ddaw n wanzar-iw. Asemmaḍ n tsekkurt yessliɣ-iyi-d cwiṭ n tallit, maca ssddaw-as lḥuḍ n usserwes mazal d azeggaɣ, d awraɣ, d azegzaw, iɛeddayen teddun-d s ḥafir deg yiniten, am wakken lweqt ur iǧǧi ara taɣawsa ansi i d-tettuɣal. Deg teswiɛt-nni, fehmeɣ dakken amezruy ur iɛeqqil ara deg lewṣayat, tikwal i d-yettakk aẓeḥḥaṛ arma yessuffuɣ-d imeṭṭawen.

Mi d-ffɣeɣ seg wefus n usserwes, deg taddart taqburt n Fas, ɛawdeɣ ǧǧleɣ azgen n usrag. Deg yinacurin, ur d-ttwalan ara igenwan, ala ṣṣut n tḥanut n nnḥas i d-yettḍewwiren takasput, rrwayeḥ n weɣrum i d-yeffeɣen seg yimi n wefqir n weɣrum, ṣṣut n takurt n yiḥerracen mi d-tewwet ɣef tebburt n wesɣaṛ. Yiwen n weqcic, yelsa tafsa tazeggaɣt n terbaɛt taɣelant n Lmeɣrib, yewwet-d s ddaw, ɣef uɛrur-is, yura-d Hakimi. Tafsa-nni teffeɣ seg wakal n yinacurin arma d tafrawant, maca tettwamezgeṛ ula d nettat i tfekka n lemɛallam n Lmeɣrib i txedmen deg yiḥuna n tfaṛin. Takurt n uḍar deg wadeg-a ur d-tettekki ara i yinebgiten kan, ttɛawad-d deg yinacurin, tesɛerriq ɣef tiliẓri n tnegluft n watay, deg tazzla n yiḥerracen mi d-ttɛawaden s talɣa n wass.

Seg Fas ɣer wenẓul, rrwayeḥ beddant-d ttuɣalent-d d tilemt. Mi d-riɣ ɣer Merzouga, Tneẓruft ur tesɛi ara rrwayeḥ. Lɛecc n wass d ameqqran, ijdiren, tafukt, igenni, am wakken d ayen i d-yettwakksen waman; wanzar iɛewwez seg usenfel, din kan d lmelḥ ɣef yicenfiren d yidammen n tɣemlit n tcebbubt. Deg yiḍ, qqimeɣ sdat n wexrabu n yitran, Abrid n Walim telmed-d am wakken ad d-teɣli ɣef deffir n yigumma n rrmel. Ulac ddexxan n temdint, ulac rrwayeḥ n usserwes, ulac tazizawt n ssuq, ala rrayeḥa n wesɣaṛ n tmes i yeṛɣen. Aneggar n terbaɛt yessers-d tazemzagt n watay ɣer tama n times, watay i d-yeffeɣen yesɛa rrayeḥa n ddexxan, tazizawt-is d tin i d-yewwin Tneẓruft, d tafrawant, d tin iḥercen, am uḍu ur d-yettaɛen ara ad iḥbes. Ayen i k-id-yewɛiṛen deg Tneẓruft, d akken ad ak-d-tessufeɣ akk rrwayeḥ, ad ak-d-teǧǧ ad tesled ɣer wuncuc-ik i tikkelt tamezwarut.

Mi d-uɣaleɣ ɣer Riad, Lmeɣrib iɛawed i d-yerra-yi-d rrwayeḥ. Tabburt n wesɣaṛ i yeẓẓen teffeɣ-d seg wezniq, deg-s d umaḍal nniḍen: amili ameẓẓan, leḥyuḍ n zzellij, ar n lecṛa d wuzddif n lecṛa n limun iqerḥen. Rrayeḥa n limun mačči d rrwayeḥ n lɛeṭer i d-ittɛawaden kan, d ayen iḍeffeṛen, d ayen iɛeḍḍilen, am wakken d tizzizert i d-yettalin ɣef zzellij. Bab n wexxam yessers-d watay n tsekkurt, tazemzagt tuli-d s lɛali, tazegzawt n watay deg lkas n zzaǧ tettek-d aẓekwan, sskkaṛ icaggen arma d aɛum. Mi s-wiɣ tanezzayt tamezwarut, ɣileɣ d tazizawt bezzaf, tanezzayt tis snat bdiɣ ad t-qebbleɣ, tanezzayt tis kraḍ fehmeɣ: tazizawt n Lmeɣrib mačči d asefrun, d yiwen n wemkan n wesnefra.

Ayen i yi-d-iḥulfan s tidet ɣef tazizawt-a, d yiwen n ṭajin. Mi d-yettwafrureq uqemmum n wakal, tixsi, iẓalimen, lberquq iquren, lqerfa d zzenjabil, rrwayeḥ-nsen n usekkum iḍeffeṛen akk ttemɛawanent-d, mačči d tnegluft n wegdud i iɛehhilen. Ṭajin ur k-id-yettuxuṣ ara, yeǧǧa aksum ad d-yessuffeɣ deg waman-is, yeǧǧa tazizawt n yigumma d rrwayeḥ n tsaṛin ad d-ɛiwen yiwen ɣef wayeḍ s leɛqel. Deg tḍeblit nniḍen, llan yilemẓiyen ttmugren-d ɣef utilsat-nsen, la ttɛawaden talɣa n takurt n uḍar, Hakimi deg ubrid ayeffus yebda-d, akk imdanen n tḍeblit ssutɣen-d yiwet n "ahh". Bab n tḥanut yessuli-d aqemmu-is, yeḍsa, yenna-d dakken d abeṭṭal n tmurt, ilul di Sbanya, maca mi iṛuḥ, d aqcic n Lmeɣrib. Mi ifukk awal, yeɛawed ad aɣ-d-yessiwed watay, tazemzagt tuli-d s lɛali, am wakken ad d-yerẓem lḥukm-a.

Awal-a isemɣer-iyi-d ɣef Ukrwas n Umaḍal 2022. Lmeɣrib mi d-yewweḍ ar rebɛa n yimeqqranen n umaḍal, amaḍal uṛah ad iɛawed ad iwali takurt n uḍar n Lmeɣrib s yiwen n wallen n zik. Mačči d lḥikayt n "umezwaru" i t-id-igezmen; yettban-d am rrwayeḥ n deffir n rreṣaṣ n wegdud i d-yeggran deg yelsa. Bounou i d-yekksen tayda, Amrabat i d-yekksen aneεqab, Hakimi s tɣemnast-is n tɣemnast i d-yerran Sbanya s ddaw, tiwlafin-a d ayen i d-yessemlalen ismawen i d-yefraren deg Madrid, Bariẓ, Amsterdam d Tigemmi n Ccix. Takurt n uḍar deg wadeg-a mačči d amkan n tnegluft, maca ad d-tesɛerriq deg tiliẓri n tnegluft n watay, deg uṛadyu n ṭaksi, deg tafsa n yiḥerracen.

Tameddit taneggura send ad qqleɣ seg Mrrakc, uɣalɣeɣ ɣer Jemaa el-Fnaa. Ddexxan mazal d ameqqran, winan n tnegluft mazal ččurent arma d ameqqran, watay n tsekkurt mazal d azizwen arma d asuffeɣ. Maca tura, tzemreɣ ad d-farqeg inawaden deg lḥirati: tamezwarut, rrwayeḥ n ssuq n tsaṛin, sakin asemmaḍ n tsekkurt n usserwes, sakin lḥama n tneẓruft i yesɛan rrwayeḥ n ulac, sakin tizizert n ujiḍir n Riad, asekkum n ṭajin, askkaṛ ddaw n lkas. Ayen i d-yeqqimen deg tamsizzelt n Lmeɣrib mačči d yiwen n wemkan i togeḍ taswirt, maca d rrwayeḥ-a i d-yettɛawaden deg tfekka am yiwen n webrid. Ad tḥsebḍ dakken teɛeddaḍ tamurt, maca s tidet, d nettat i k-id-issiwsiren s rrwayeḥ.