Yuganda Akwantuo: Wɔ Nile Asefi, Te Bɔɔl Bɔ ne Kwae Mu Osu Nnyegye

Yuganda akwantuo nnyegye a edi kan no, ɛnyɛ nsuhwe, na ɛnyɛ kwae mu osu, na mmom, ɛyɛ Kampala anadwo mu bɔɔl a wɔboeɛ a ɛnkɔɔ baabiara. Bɔɔl no firii red asase kwansoɔ so sɔree, faa boda-boda moto akyi taa ho, kɔkorokora kɔɔ banana a wɔatoto sotɔɔ no anim. Aguadifoɔ no amfa abofuo, na ɔbrɛɛ n'ase de ne ntaadeɛ piaa bɔɔl no brɛoo, de san maa mmofra no nan ase. Obi a ɔbɛn hɔ no teɛɛ mu kaa 'Onyango,' na mmeranteɛ nketewa no seree hwetee, na wɔsan tuu mmirika taa no so. Saa bere no, metee aseɛ sɛ, Yuganda bɔɔl bɔ nyɛ agorɔ pɛ, na mmom, ɛte sɛ mmɔntene kasa a obiara nim: sɛ agoprama nni hɔ a, wɔbɛtumi ahyɛ aseɛ; sɛ mpaboa a wɔde bɔ bɔɔl nni hɔ a, wɔbɛtumi atu mmirika.

Kampala sii bepɔw so, na kuro no akɔneaba no te sɛ tactical map a wɔnwieeɛ ntwerɛw. Awia, taxi, trotro, moto ne nantefoɔ pere kwan baako a ɛmu yɛ den; anadwo, market no san de ntɛm no ba brɛoo. Owino mpɔtam anadwo market nkanea no sensɛn fam fam, na nam a wɔatoto wusiwusi, gyame hua, cassava a wɔakyew hyew ne osu a ɛtɔeɛ no nkyɛ akyi asase hua no nyinaa abom. Abarimaa bi a ɔhyɛ Yuganda ɔman kuo atadeɛ no de plastic bag bobɔɔ bɔl, na ɔde reyɛ keepy-uppy wɔ sotɔɔ ntam. Bere biara a ɔbɔ no, nnipa a wɔbɛn hɔ no yɛ dede. Ɔman yi anidasoɔ no nyɛ ɛberɛ biara ɛwɔ slogan so, na mpɛn pii no, ɛwɔ bɔɔl a wɔabɔ aboro no mu.

Ade kyee no, mekɔɔ Jinja, na Victoria Ɔtade no nsuo no hyerɛn wɔ mfɛnsere mu nnidisoɔ nnidisoɔ. Wɔtaa frɛ Yuganda sɛ Nile Asefi Ɔman, na sɛ wogyina Jinja asubɔnten no nkyɛn a, saa asɛmfua yi nnyina asase ho adesua nwoma mu bio. Nsuo no firi Victoria Ɔtade no mu bae, di kan yɛ komm bɛyɛɛ Victoria Nile, na afei ɛkɔ atifi fam, fa sare, bon ne ahyeɛ so, na awieeɛ no ɛbɛyɛ asubɔnten kɛse a ɛsakra asasepɔn no akra. Equator line no nso fa ɔman yi ho brɛoo, sɛ mfimfini line a wonhunu: anaafoɔ hemisphere ne atifi hemisphere kyia wɔ ha, na ɔtade nsuo, asubɔnten nsuo, red asase ne nnipa nne ka ho kɔ anim.

Mihuu agorɔ ketewa bi wɔ asubɔnten no nkyɛn. Wɔde aboɔ abien yɛ goal, na field no fã yɛ sare, na fã yɛ atɛkyɛ. Obi hyɛ Arsenal, obi hyɛ Manchester United, na obi nso hyɛ Yuganda Cranes atadeɛ a akɔla afiri. Goalkeeper ketewa bi a ɔyɛ tenten bɔɔ fam, na ne nsam nyinaa yɛ red asase, nanso sɛ ɔsɔre a, ɔseree hyerɛnee. Bɔɔl bɔ wɔ ha nyɛ sɛ wɔreguan nokwasɛm, na mmom, wɔde nokwasɛm no kyerɛw foforɔ wɔ bere tiawa mu. Wobɛtumi atena mpɔtam a nnipa pii wɔ, wobɛtumi nni training field a ɛfata, nanso sɛ bɔɔl no da so wɔ wo nan nkyɛn a, daakye no da so betumi ayɛ adwene.

Murchison Nsuhwe no de saa dinn adwene yi bubuu mpofirim. Sɛ kar no duu Top of the Falls a, nsuo nnyegye no di kan firi nnua no akyi bae denneennen. Sɛ wogyina rail nkyɛn ampa a, na wonim sɛ ɛnyɛ 'duru' asɛmfua abien a wɔde bɛkyerɛkyerɛ nnyegye yi mu. Nile nyinaa no, wɔapia ahyɛ abotan ketewa mu, na ɛfiri soro bɔ fam, na nsuo wusiwusi no bɔ w'anim, sɛ obi de drum fitaa abata w'aso rekyerɛ. Guide no kaa sɛ, asubɔnten no yɛ abufuo wɔ ha, efirisɛ wɔhyɛɛ no ma ɛyɛɛ ketewa. Nanso sɛ mehwɛɛ nsuo a ɛrehinhim no, metee sɛ ɛte sɛ Yugandafoɔ afã foforɔ: wɔapia wɔn, nanso wɔmfa ahoɔden a ɛrekɔ anim no nhwere.

Sɛ wokɔ anaafoɔ-atɔeɛ bio a, kwansoɔ no hyɛ aseɛ kɔ bepɔw so. Yuganda yɛ wiase bɛyɛ fã gorilla fie, na Bwindi Kwae a Wɔrentumi Nfa Mu no de ne din no nyɛ ntwitwadeɛ. Ɛnyɛ kwae bi a wobɛtumi 'afa mu' brɛoo, na mmom, ɛte sɛ ɔfasuo ahabammu a ɛyɛ nwose, ɛmu yɛ duru, na ɛhome. Anɔpa nnɔnson, forest ranger no kaa mmara no wɔ meeting point no: nnipa baawɔtwe wɔ kuo baako mu, sɛ wohunu gorilla a, dɔnhwere baako pɛ na wɔbɛtena, wɔremfa flash ntwɛn mfoni, na ɛsɛ sɛ wodi akwankyerɛ so. Asɛm biara yɛ ɔkwa, nanso sɛ osu no bɔ wɔ kyɛw ano a, obiara yɛɛ komm, sɛ wɔrehyɛn amanneɛ bi a ɛyɛ tete.

Bwindi nantew nnyegye no yɛ soronko. Ɛnyɛ mpaboa a ɛkyerɛw ɔkwan so nnyegye, na mmom, ɛyɛ atɛkyɛ a ɛhome mpaboa, nwera a ɛyɛ den a ɛpaapae atadeɛ, cutlass a ɛbubu nhaban ne nkorabata, akyirikyiri nnomaa nnyegye a ɛgyae mpofirim. Yɛfaa banana afuw mu, na yɛsan kɔɔ nnua sunsuma a emu yɛ den mu. Kwae mu osu no anhyehyɛ akwan a ɛyɛ fɛ mma nsrahwɛfoɔ, na beaeɛ a ɛkɔ fam no yɛ toro, na nnua ntini te sɛ nsa a ɛretwetwe obi. Mfɛfoɔ a wɔka yɛn ho no, wɔdii kan kasae, na akyiri yi, ɛkaa ahomegye pɛ. Forest ranger no gyinae mprenpren bi, tiee radio so tracker no kyerɛ beaeɛ, ansa na wama ne nsa so akyerɛ sɛ yɛnni akyi.

Bɛyɛ nnɔnhwerew mmiɛnsa akyi no, forest ranger a ɔwɔ anim no bɔɔ ne mu mpofirim. Mframa no te sɛ wɔaso mu. Mita akron nkyɛn no, silverback gorilla bi te nhaban ntam, na ne ho nwi tuntum no wɔ osu nsuo, na n'akyi dwetɛ no hyerɛn wɔ sunsuma mu. Wanyɛ drama, na wamfa yɛn nso, na mmom, ɔbɔɔ mmerɛwee bi na ɔde hyɛɛ n'anomu we. Ne nkyɛn no, gorilla nketewa no pirew, twitwaa nhaban, sɛ Kampala anadwo market mu mmofra a wɔregye bɔɔl. Nanso sɛ silverback no maa n'ani so a, kwae no nyinaa yɛɛ komm ntɛm ara.

Saa dɔnhwere baako no fam kwan no annyɛ sɛ dɔnhwere baako. Wowerɛ firii camera, wowerɛ firii atɛkyɛ, wowerɛ firii sɛnea wode ahoɔden kɔɔ ha. Nnipa pɛ sɛ wɔdan wuram mmoa yɛ 'nsrahwɛ beaeɛ,' nanso wɔ Bwindi no, abusuabɔ no adan. Ɛyɛ gorilla no na ɛma yɛn kwan sɛ yɛntena wɔn asetena ano wɔ bere tiawa mu. Wɔwe nhaban, wɔda, wɔbɛn wɔn ho, na wɔnhia yɛn nwonwa koraa. Sɛ yɛrekɔ a, medan m'ani hwɛɛ akyi, na silverback no adan n'akyi dada, sɛ aboɔ tuntum a ɛrehinhim, a ɔresan akɔ kwae no mu dɔ brɛoo.

Sɛ yɛresan akɔ Kampala no, medwenee bɔɔl bɔ ne gorilla ntam abusuabɔ ho daa. Baako wɔ red asase mmɔntene nkyɛn, na baako wɔ bepɔw tenten kwae mu osu mu; baako yɛ dede, mmirika ne oteɛmu, na baako yɛ dinn, ntam kwan ne ahobrɛase. Nanso wɔn nyinaa reka asɛm koro: sɛnea Yuganda sie nkwa ahoɔden. Bɔɔl bɔ yɛ anidasoɔ kasa, na mmofra de ka sɛ 'metumi atu mmirika bio'; abɔdeɛ yɛ bere kasa, na Bwindi de ka sɛ 'ɛsɛ sɛ wobre w'ase.'

Anadwo a ɛtwa toɔ no, mesan kɔɔ Kampala anadwo market. Nam a wɔatoto sotɔɔ no anim, gyame no hyew denneennen, na radio no mu no, bɔɔl bɔ commentary no reba, na mmarima pii twaa screen ketewa bi ho a wɔregye akyinnye wɔ gyinae bi ho. Akyirikyiri no, mmofra kɔ so bɔ bɔɔl, na bɔɔl no korokora kɔɔ sunsuma mu, na wɔsan de nan baako bo kɔɔ kanea ase. Mekaa Jinja a Nile firi aseɛ komm no, mekaa Murchison Nsuhwe a ɛde nsuo nnyegye pia kɔɔ koko so no, mekaa Bwindi kwae mu osu mu silverback a ɔbrɛ ne ti ase we nhaban no.

Eyi na ɛyɛ Yuganda akwantuo a mekaee: ɛnyɛ Afrika adwene baako, na ɛnyɛ safari, nsuhwe anaa gorilla pɛ. Ɛyɛ ɔkwan a efi mmɔntene agoprama so kɔ kwae mu osu mu dɔ. Wodi kan te mmofra a wɔteɛ mu kyerɛ anidasoɔ wɔ Kampala, afei wohu sɛnea nsuo firi aseɛ wɔ Nile nkyɛn, na awieeɛ no, wosua sɛ wobrɛ w'ase wɔ Bwindi. Sɛ worekɔ a, red asase no da so bata mpaboa ase, kwae mu osu nantew nnyegye no da so wɔ asom, na bɔɔl a wɔabɔ aboro no, ɛte sɛ ɛda so rekorokora wɔ anadwo market kanea ase.