Luhambo lwaseUganda: Emthonjeni weNayile, yeva umsindvo webhola nemvula yelhlathi

Umsindvo wekucala weluhambo lwaseUganda, bekungasiwo umfula, noma lihlathi, kodvwa ebusuku eKampala ibhola lelikhahlelwe eceleni. Ibhola lasuka emgwacweni lobovu, lagudla emuva kwesondo lemoto ye-boda-boda, laginqika ngaphambi kwematafula ekosa emabhanana. Umtsengisi akazange acunuke, wagoba wabhampa ngesicathulo selastic, waphasisa ibhola etinyaweni tebantfwana. Lomunye wamemeta 'Onyango,' bantfwana labanyenti bahleka bahlakateka, baphindze bajaha. Ngaleso sikhatsi ngabona, ibhola laseUganda alikho emdlalweni kuphela, lifana kakhulu nelulwimi lwemgwacweni: noma ngabe iyiphi, ungayivula; noma ngabe ungenasicathulo, ungagijima.

IKampala yakhiwe etintsabeni, kuhamba kwelidolobha kufana nemdvwana wekusebenta longakacedzwa. Emini, ematekisi, emabhasi lamancane, timoto, kanye nabagibeli balwela umgwaco munye; ebusuku, imakethe ibuyisela sijubane kancane. Tikhanyo tasemakethe yase-Owino tikhanya, umuntfu wekosa, umuntfu wemalahle, umuntfu wamafutsa, kanye nemuntfu wemhlaba lokumanzi kwemvula kuhlangene. Umfana logcoke ijezi lelicembu lesive laseUganda wagoqa sikhwama sepulasitiki waba libhola, waprakthiza ukuphakamisa emkhatsini wetitolo. Njengoba aphakamisa, bantfu bamemelela. Lithemba lelive alihlali emabhodleleni, kanye kanye, liselibholeni lelidzala lelikhahlelwe.

Ngelilanga lelilandzelako saya eJinja, emanti eLwandle iVictoria akhanya ngephandle kwelifasitelo. IUganda ivame kubitwa ngekutsi live lemthombo weNayile, nangabe umi emfuleni eJinja, lamavi awasafani netincwadzi te-geography. Emanti avela eLwandle iVictoria, acala ngekuthula abe yiVictoria Nile, bese aya ngenyakatfo, adlule emapulazini, etihosheni, nasemingceleni, ekugcineni abe ngumfula logucula sibusiso selivekati. Umugca we-Equator nawo udlula kulelive ngekunye, ufana nemugca lomkhulu longabonakali: inyakatfo neningizimu yemhlaba iyahlangana lapha, emachibi, imifula, umhlabatsi lobovu, kanye nemazwi ebantfu ahamba ndzawonye.

Ngasemfuleni ngabona umdlalo lomncane. Emagoli ngematje lamabili, inkundla ihhafu tjani, ihhafu ludzaka. Lomunye ubegcoke i-Arsenal, lomunye i-Man Utd., lomunye ijezi le-Uganda Cranes leliphelile. Umgcini webhola lomuhle wageleka, tandla takhe tagcwala emhlabatsini lobovu, wasukuma wahleka. Ibhola lapha akusikho kubalekela kucatjangwa kwekusasa, kodvwa kugucula lokucatjangelwayo. Ungahlala endzaweni legcwele, ungabi nayo inkundla yekucecesha, kodvwa nangabe ibhola lisetinyaweni takho, likusasa lisengacatjangwa.

IMurchison Falls yaphula lokucabanga ngekuthula. Imoto yafika eTop of the Falls, umsindvo wemanti weza emuva kwetihlahla kucala. Nangisengime eceleni kwebhuloho, ngabona kutsi akusiko 'kukhala' lokungagcwalisa umsindvo. Wonkhe umfula iNayile uphitsitelwa emkhatsini wematsa lomncane, uphakanyiswe, umuntfu wemanti ufika ebusweni, kufana nekutsi umuntfu lomhlophe ashaye isigubhu eceleni kwendlebe. Umholi watsi umfula uba nolaka lapha ngoba uyaphoceleka unciphise. Kodvwa nangibuka lamanti lajikako, kufana nalenye incenye yemuntfu waseUganda: bacindzeteliwe, kodvwa abalahlekelwa ngemandla ekuya embili.

Eningizimu-ntshonalanga, umgwaco ucala kungena etintsabeni. IUganda likhaya lehafu yemagorila etintsaba emhlabeni, kanti iBwindi Impenetrable Forest leligama alinakubhebhetela. Akusilo lihlatsi longangena kulo nje kalula, lifana kakhulu nalubondza loluluhlata, lolunemandla, loluphefumulako. Ngehora lesi-7 ekuseni, balindi bahlangana endzaweni yemhlangano: bantfu labasiphohlongo emkhatsini, nangabe sewutawutfola emagorila ungahlala ihora linye kuphela, ungavuli emalambu, kufanele ulandzela imiyalo. Wonkhe umusho ujwayelekile, kodvwa nangabe emaconsi emvula ewa esigqokweni, wonkhe umuntfu wathula, kufana nekungena emikhubeni yasendvulo.

Umsindvo wetinyatselo eBwindi uhlukile. Akusikho umsindvo wetinyatselo emgwacweni, kodvwa ludzaka loludvonsa emabhutsi, imishubelo ledvonsa emabhulukweni, ummese wesicephu, kanye nekukhala kwetinyoni letimile. Sacela emaplazini emabhanana, saphindze sangena etitfuntini letimnyama. Lihlatsi alizange lilungiselele tivakashi imigwaco lemihle, tindzawo letimbi, timphandze tifana netandla letikukhubayo. Labanye bacala ngekukhuluma, ekugcineni kwasele kuphefumula. Lomlindi wema, walalela umsakatelo lapho khona umlandzeli atsi ukuphi, waphindze waphakamisa sandla kusilandzela.

Emahoreni lamatsatfu kamuva, lomlindi wangaphambili wagoba ngekushesha. Umoya wafana nekucindzetelwa. Emamitha lambalwa, i-silverback gorilla yahlala emkhatsini wetjani, emamongolo amnyama anemanti, umgogodla wayo lomphetshi ukhanya etitfuntini. Ayizange yenze umdlalo, noma isemukele, vele yatsatsa emahlumela, yawafaka emlonyeni. Emagorila lamancane aginqika, advonsa emahlamvu afana nebantfwana ebusuku eKampala ngesikhatsi bephangisana ngebhola. Kodvwa nangabe emehlo e-silverback aphakamisiwe, lonkhe lihlatsi laphindze lathula.

Lelihora lelidze alizange lidlula njengetfuva. Uyakhohlwa ikhamera, ukhohlwe ludzaka, ukhohlwe kutsi utsatse mandla lamangakanani kufika lapha. Bantfu bahlala njalo benta tilwane tibe 'tindzawo tekuhlola,' kodvwa eBwindi, lomhlaba uguqukile. Ngemagorila lasivumele kuhlala sikhatsana empilweni yawo. Adla emahlamvu, alala, ahambisana, awadingi kumangala kwetfu. Ngesikhatsi sihamba, ngabuka emuva, le-silverback yayisijikile, ifana nalitsa lelimnyama lelihambako, kancane ibuyela ekujuleni kwelhlathi.

Emuva eKampala, bengihleli ngicabanga kutsi ibhola nemagorila kuhlobene kanjani. Inye isemgwacweni lobovu, lenye isetintsabeni letiphezulu; inye ngumdlandla, kugijima nekumemeta, lenye kuthula, libanga, nekuhlonipha. Kodvwa timbili tikhuluma ngendzaba lefanako: kutsi iUganda ikugcina njani kusindza. Ibhola lulwimi lwethemba, bantfwana balisebentisa kutsi 'ngisengagijima'; imvelo lulwimi lwesikhatsi, iBwindi ikusho ngekutsi 'kufanele wehlise sijubane.'

Ngebusuku bekugcina, ngaphindze ngaya emakethe yebusuku yaseKampala. Emalahle ngaphambi kwematafula enyama yoke abasa kakhulu, emsakatelo uletsa umhlaziyi webhola, emadvodza lamanyenti atungele isikrini lesincane aphikisana ngesinqumo. Kukhashane bantfwana bachubeka badlala ibhola, ibhola laginqika emtfunteni, laphindze lakhahlelwa ngaphansi kwetibane. Ngacabanga ngeNayile eJinja lapho icala khona ngekuthula, ngeMurchison Falls lapho umsindvo wemanti ufika esifubeni, nange-silverback ehlatsini laseBwindi ngesikhatsi igobisa ikhanda idla emahlamvu.

Yilena iUganda lengiyikhumbulako: akusikho lokucatsangelwa ngeAfrika lokukodwa, akusikho safari nje, tihosha, noma emagorila. Yindlela lesuka enkundleni yemgwaco iye ekujuleni kwelhlathi. Ucala ngekuva eKampala umntfwana amemeta lithemba, uye emfuleni iNayile ubone kutsi emanti acala kanjani, ekugcineni eBwindi ufunde kwehlisa lizwi. Ngesikhatsi ngihamba, umhlabatsi lobovu wawusanamatela eticathulweni tami, umsindvo wetinyatselo telhlathi wawusetindlebeni tami, futsi lelibhola lelidzala lelikhahlelwe, belingakaqedi kuginqika ngaphansi kwetibane temakethe yebusuku.