Tamsizzelt n Uganda: ɣer tlemmast n tẓuṛi n Nnil, seld iɣebban n takurt d tẓeggiwin n uẓeḥḥaṛ

Taɣect tamezwarut n tamsizzelt n Uganda, mačči d amḍuyen n waman, ula d aẓeḥḥaṛ n tneḍruft, maca d yiwen n uḍar n takurt i d-yettwakksen deg yiḍ n Kampala. Takurt tuɣal-d seg webrid-a, teɛedda ɣef uɛerḍuḍ deffir n yiwen n umutur n boda-boda, teɣli-d sdat n umkan n tnegluft n ubanan. Anezzarfu ur yerfi ara, yeɛeǧǧ s useda yessaweḍ takurt i yiḥerracen. Deg tama, yella umdan yessutuy "Onyango", kraḍ n yilemẓiyen ḍsen, fraren, sakin ɛawden d-ḍfaṛen takurt. Deg teswiɛt-nni, fehmeɣ, takurt n uḍar n Uganda mačči d urmud kan, tettban-d am yiwen n wawal n wezniq: ula ma ulac annar, ad d-nebdu; ula ma ulac isebaden n takurt, ad d-nezger.

Kampala tebna ɣef yidrarn, lɛewiǧ n temdint am yiwen n ufaylu n tṣṣeɣlit ur d-yettwafukken ara. Deg wass, ṭaksiyat, imuturen, imutuciklat d yimdanen, akk ttemḥazent yiwen ɣef wayeḍ ɣef yiwen n webrid i d-ttwaḍḍfen; deg yiḍ, ssuq yessers-d tazzla-s s leɛqel. Deg Owino, tifawin n ssuq n yiḍ ssersent-d, ddexxan n weẓmmum, rrayeḥa n waman n wesɣaṛ, rrayeḥa n tnegluft n yimɣi i d-yettwaḥman d rrayeḥa n wakal i d-yettwaɣzen. Yiwen n weqcic yelsa tafsa n terbaɛt taɣelant n Uganda, yerra tafrawant n blaṣṭik d takurt, la yettɛamal gar n yiḥuna. Yal mi ara d-yessali yiwen, yella umdan i d-yessutɣayen. Asirem n tmurt-a ur d-yettwabna ara yal tikelt ɣef yibermiyen, s waṭas, yella deg yiwen n uccen i d-yettwaḥuzen.

Azekka-nni, riɣ ɣer Jinja, aman n Ugemlim n Victoria la ttesɛerriqen sdat n tzewwut. Uganda s umata tettwanɣar-itt "tamurt n tlemmast n tẓuṛi n Nnil", mi tebḍuḍ ɣef yiri n wasif n Jinja, awal-a yuɣal-d d ayen i d-yettɛawaden. Aman d-yeffeɣen seg Ugemlim n Victoria, zik d tɣimit kan, tuɣal d Nnil Victoria, sakin ɣer ugafa, tɛedda-d ɣef tferkiwin, tizagriwin d yiɣerfan, deg taggara, tuɣal d yiwen n wasif i d-yettbeddilen taɣect n yiwen n umenẓaw. Aseḍru n useggas n tẓegwa, ula d nettat, iɛedda ɣef tmurt-a s leɛqel, am yiwen n yicer ur d-yettwalan ara: anẓul n Ugemlim d Wenẓul d tazwara, am wakken d yiwen kan n ufus.

Deg yiri n wasif, walaɣ yiwen n urar n takurt. Tiwwura n takurt d sin yizra, azgen n wennar d aḥcic, azgen nniḍen d wakal. Llan wid yelsan Arsenal, llan wid yelsan Manchester United, llan daɣen wid yelsan tafsarin n Uganda Cranes i yettwakkesen. Yiwen n uḥeddad n tmennaɛt i d-yuḍen s tɣit, iɣil-is n tɣennant yeččuṛ d akal azeggaɣ, maca mi d-yekker, yeḍsa s tafat tameqqrant. Takurt n uḍar deg wadeg-a mačči d akken ad d-terreɣ tilawt s ddaw, maca d akken ad d-tesbeddleḍ tilawt s umeslay nniḍen. Tzemreḍ ad d-tidireḍ deg yimukan iččuren, tzemreḍ ad ur tesɛiḍ ara annar iwulmen, maca ɣas ma yella takutt mazal ddaw uḍar-ik, imal yezmer ad d-yettwaxeddem.

Imḍuyen n Murchison ad d-sseḥbsen tizizert-a n tɣimit. Takeṛṛust d-riɣ ɣer Tqacuct n Imḍuyen (Top of the Falls), aṣut n waman yezwar-d seg tẓeggiwin. Mi tebḍuḍ s tidet ɣer yiri n uɛellab, dɣa ad tfehmeḍ dakken "taɣect tameqqrant" d gan n sin wawalen kan. Asif n Nnil, s lekmal-is, yettwakkes ɣer yiwen n ubrid i d-ittqennin, seg tqacuct yettḍuqqun-d s ddaw, tagnut n waman tettḍuqqun ɣer wudmawen, am wakken d yiwen i d-yessersen yiwen n ublel amellal ɣef yimeẓẓuɣen. Aneggar n terbaɛt yenna-d, asif din yettɣimi deg lɣiḍ, acku yettwamseḍruṛ. Maca mi walaɣ aman-nni la ttemḥazent, xemmneɣ dakken d ayen i d-yettɛawaden i Yigandayen: twaɛeffan, maca ur tḥebbsen ara tazmert n tizi n sdat.

S ddaw ɣer wenẓul-umalu, abrid yebda-d yettali ɣer yidrarn. Uganda d axxam n wazgen n yigdalen n wedrar deg umaḍal, maca isem n "Aẓeḥḥaṛ n Bwindi ur t-yettaɛen ara ad d-yekcem" (Bwindi Impenetrable Forest) ur yettwaḥerref ara. Mačči d yiwen n uẓeḥḥaṛ i d-yettilin d ayen fessusen ad d-tkecmeḍ, tettban-d am yiwen n leḥṣar iḍeffeṛen, iḥman, i d-yettɛicen. Tis sebɛa n ṣṣbeḥ, imeḥdar n tẓeggiwin ssemlalen-d ɣef wamkan, ssefhamen-d ileqman: tam n yimdanen deg terbaɛt, mi d-tafen igdalen, ad qqimen kan yiwen n usrag, ur d-tesɛararen ara tifawin, yessefk ad d-tḍefṛen tiyitin. Yal awal yettban-d d amagnu, maca mi d-yeɣli wenẓar ɣef uqemmu n teqbuct, akk ssusmen-d, am wakken kecmen ɣer yiwen n uritmi aqbur.

Imudar n Bwindi, d ayen i d-yemgaraden. Mačči d aṣut n useda i d-yettḍuqqun ɣef webrid, maca d wakal i d-yettaɛen asebad, tizeggʷaɣin i d-yettaɛen asebad, aḥecrar i d-yettaɛen tiferkiwin, aṣut n yiɣeḍ deg tmerrit i d-yettɛawaden s telqayt. Nezger ɣef yigran n ubanan, sakin nekcem ɣer tili n yisekla i yettilin deg tzerga. Aẓeḥḥaṛ n tneḍruft ur d-yessewjed ara ibardan ifessusen i yinebgiten, asezɣar d amseḥric, iẓuran n yisekla am yifassen i k-id-yettaɛen. Wid yeddan yid-i, zik la ttmeslayen, sakin ala anẓi i d-yeggran. Ameḥdar yettɛadal, yesselleḍ ɣer uṛadyu, iɣebban n win i la ittmuddu, sakin yessuli-d afus-is ad nḍfeṛ.

Deffir n kraḍ n swayeɛ, ameḥdar yellan sdat-i ɣersen s deεwessu. Aḍu yettwaṭṭef am wakken d yiwen i t-id-yettḍuqqen. Kraḍ n yimitraten sdat, yiwen n ugdal i d-yettɣimin gar n yemɣiẓen, ccaɛr-is aberkan yettwaɣza-d s wenẓar, tafawt-is n uẓeṛwaḍ deg tili teɛerriq. Ur d-yesɛa ara tameẓriwt, ur d-yeɣli ara fell-anɣ, yeɣzeb-d kan yiwen n yifer yeqqimen, yessers-it deg yimi-is. Deg tama-s, igdalen imeẓẓyanen qqlen-d, hezzun-d iferrawen, am yigerdan n ssuq n yiḍ n Kampala i d-yettḥuzzun takurt. Maca mi d-yessuli ugdal meqqran allen-is, aẓeḥḥaṛ meṛṛa yuɣal-d d tazɣint.

Usrag-nni n yiwet n teswiɛt yezger-d ur yelli d taswiɛt. Ad tettuḍ takamirat, ad tettuḍ wakal, ad tettuḍ acḥal n tgemmi i d-tesseɛḍaḍ akken ad d-taweḍ ɣer da. Imdanen s umata ḥemmlen ad d-rren iɣersiwen n tneḍruft d "imukan", maca deg Bwindi, tagara teɣleb. D igdalen i aɣ-d-iǧǧan ad d-neqqim s telqayt deg yiri n tudert-nsen. Ttetten iferrawen, ttaɛassun-d, ttemḥazent-d yiwen ɣer wayeḍ, ur ḥwaǧent ara tikta-nneɣ. Mi d-nuɣal, zewwered ɣer deffir, ugdal-nni meqqran yuɣal-d, am yiwen n uẓru aberkan i d-yettḥuzzun, s leɛqel, yerra-d ɣer tlemmast n tẓeggiwin.

Deg webrid n tuɣalin ɣer Kampala, xemmneɣ ɣef wassay ger takurt n uḍar d yigdalen. Yiwen deg wakal azeggaɣ n wezniq, wayeḍ ɣef wedrar n tẓeggiwin n tneḍruft; yiwen d aẓeḥḥaṛ, tazzla d usutuy, wayeḍ d tazɣint, amgared d tɣimit. Maca akk la d-ttmeslayen ɣef yiwen n wayen: Uganda amek i d-teḥrez tazmert n tudert. Takurt n uḍar d tutlayt n usirem, arrac s-yes seqdacen-t ad d-inin "mazal zmireɣ ad d-zzegreɣ"; tawennaḍt d tutlayt n lweqt, Bwindi s-yes tesseqdac-itt ad d-tini "yessefk ad d-tesɛuddeḍ".

Deg yiḍ aneggaru, uɣalɣeɣ ɣer ssuq n yiḍ n Kampala. Sdat n yiḥuna n tnegluft, times tecɛal-d s tgemmi, deg uṛadyu, taɣect n tnegluft n takurt n uḍar tettɛawad-d, kraḍ n yirgazen zzin-d ɣef yiwen n uḍebsi ameẓẓan la ttemḥazent ɣef yiwen n lḥukm. Deg tmerrit, llan yigerdan la teddun s tazzla deffir n takurt, takurt teɣli-d ɣer tili, yuɣal-d tettwaṭṭef s ddaw n tafawt. Xemmneɣ ɣef Jinja, anda Nnil i d-yebda s tɣimit; xemmneɣ ɣef yimḍuyen n Murchison i d-yettawin aṣut n waman ɣer yidmaren; xemmneɣ ɣef ugdal meqqran n Bwindi i d-yettes s ddaw, la yessuffuɣ-d iferrawen.

Wagi d wayen i d-ḥkiɣ ɣef tamsizzelt n Uganda: mačči d yiwen n wudem n Tefriqt kan, mačči d safari, imḍuyen neɣ igdalen kan. D abrid i d-itteddun seg wennar n wezniq ar tlemmast n tẓeggiwin. Tazwara, deg Kampala, ad d-tesled ɣer uqcic i d-yessutɣayen asirem; sakin, ɣef yiri n Nnil, ad twaliḍ amek i d-yebda waman; deg taggara, deg Bwindi, ad d-telmdeḍ ad d-tessersed aṣut. Mi d-teffɣeḍ, akal azeggaɣ mazal yeqqen ɣer useda-k, imudar n tẓeggiwin mazal deg yimeẓẓuɣen-ik, d takutt-nni i d-yettwaḥuzen, am wakken mazal la tetteḥuzzu ddaw n tafawt n ssuq n yiḍ.