Curacao Labarai: A Curaçao, Netherlands Ba Ta Taɓa Barin Ba—Kawai Ta Koyi Saka Gajeren Wando

Lokacin da gidaje masu launuka masu laushi na Willemstad suka nuna jikinsu a cikin ruwan St. Anna Bay, za ka gamu da wani irin ruɗin gani — kamar wani ya ja Amsterdam zuwa ekweita da igiya, ya manta da ɗauko gidajen da ke da saman maɗaukaki, sannan ya bar su su gasu a ƙarƙashin rana ta Caribbean tsawon shekaru ɗari huɗu. Wannan shine yadda suke a yanzu.

Gine-ginen suna bin tsayin Dutch da kayan ado na saman maɗaukaki daidai, amma launuka — rawayar lemo, ruwan hoda na murjani, koren mint, shuɗin kobalt — duk ba na arewacin Turai ba ne. Wani jagora na gida ya jingina da katangar gadar Queen Emma, yana magana da Papiamentu cikin wayarsa. Ya gan ni ina kallon gine-ginen, ya kashe wayar, ya ce cikin Turanci mai lafazin Dutch: 'Ka san dalilin da ya sa launuka suke da haske haka? Tatsuniya ta ce tsohon gwamna ya ga fararen haske suna da zafi a ido ya umurci a yi wa kowane gini launi. Amma mutanen gida sun fi son wani labari — muna so mu tunatar da Dutch cewa wannan ba Turai ba ce.'

Curaçao ƙasa ce ta Mulkin Netherlands, a kudancin Caribbean ba da nisan kilomita 65 daga gabar tekun Venezuela. Yawan jama'a: kusan 160,000. Yanayin ƙasarta ne ya ƙaddara makomarta: ikon shari'a na Turai yana shawagi a cikin Tekun Caribbean, inda bututun matatar mai da gidajen tarihi na zamanin mulkin mallaka suke raba sararin sama ɗaya.

Ina tafiya cikin gundumar Otrobanda, na ji wata tattaunawa da ba wani ɗan yawon buɗe ido zai iya fahimta — wasu tsofaffin mata biyu a kan baranda suna magana da Papiamentu, kowace jimla tana jin kamar tsarin Mutanen Espanya an cushe a cikin fatar Dutch, an tura ta da kaɗin Afirka. Papiamentu madubi ne na Curaçao: ƙamus na Dutch tarihin mulkin mallaka ne, tushen Mutanen Espanya yanayin ƙasa ne, kaɗin da aka samo daga Afirka tabon cinikin bayi ne. Wani marubucin gida ya taɓa cewa: 'Idan muka yi magana da Papiamentu, muna sake tabbatar da ainihinmu a kowane lokaci — mutanen Caribbean, ikon Dutch, tushen Afirka.'

Abincin yana bayyana irin wannan dabara. Abinci mai suna Keshi Yena — bawon cuku na Edam da aka huɗa, an cika shi da kaza, barkono, zaituni, da zabibi, sannan a gasa har sai cuku ya narke — yana karantawa kamar tarihin mulkin mallaka da ake ci. Mai gidan abincin ya gaya mini: 'Ma'aikatan jirgin ruwa na Dutch ne suka kawo cukin zuwa tsibirin. Masu girki na Afirka sun cika shi yadda suka ga dama. Shekaru ɗari huɗu da suka wuce wannan abincin bayi ne — iyayengiji suna cin tsakiyar cukin, bayi kuwa suna cika ɓawon da ragowar abinci. Yanzu? Ana ba da shi a matsayin abinci na farko a bukukuwan aure.'

Rigar ƙungiyar ƙwallon ƙafa ta Curaçao shuɗi mai zurfi ce da ratsi orange — shuɗi mai zurfi don Tekun Caribbean, orange don gidan sarautar Dutch. A cikin wani tagar shagon kayan wasa a Willemstad, wannan rigar tana rataye a wurin girmamawa, kusa da ƙaramar tutar Curaçao da wani tsohon hoto: ranar da Curaçao ta ci Kofin Caribbean na 2017, lokacin da titunan Willemstad suka cika da mutane. Mai shagon, wani mutum mai shekaru hamsin, ya ce: 'Ƙwallon ƙafa ita ce hanya ɗaya tilo da Curaçao ke iya sa Netherlands ta lura da mu. Ba mu samar da mai. Ba mu da cibiyar kuɗi. Amma muna da 'yan wasa — Leandro Bacuna ya taka leda a Premier League, Cuco Martina ya kasance a Everton. Idan mutanen Dutch suka gan su, sai su ce: ashe, wannan Curaçao ce.' Ya ɗan dakata, sannan ya ƙara: 'Kafin wannan, yawancin mutanen Dutch ba su ma san Curaçao ƙasa ce ba maimakon wurin hutun bakin teku.'

Klein Curaçao — 'Ƙaramar Curaçao' — wani ɗan guntun tsibiri ne wanda ba kowa, babu komai sai wani gidan wuta da aka yasar da kuma wani bakin teku mai farin gaske wanda ba ya kama da na Duniya. Kyaftin ɗin jirgin ruwa ya ba da ragamar tuƙi ga ɗansa ɗan shekara goma sha biyu, ya kunna rediyo a tashar tsofaffin waƙoƙin Dutch, sannan ya canza zuwa reggae. 'A Curaçao,' ya ce, 'rediyo ba ta taɓa kunna harshe ɗaya ba. Saurin da kake canza tashoshi — wannan shine saurin da wannan tsibirin ke canza ainihinsa.'

Da faɗuwar rana na koma Gadar Queen Emma. Fitilu sun kunna. Hotunan layuka biyu na gidaje masu launuka masu laushi sun watse a cikin ruwa yayin da jirgin ruwa mai wucewa ya ratsa su. A kan gada: wani ɗan gida yana tsallakawa zuwa gida daga aiki, wani ɗan yawon buɗe ido ya tsaya don ɗaukar hoton sararin sama, wani matashi a kan keke yana wucewa da sauri sanye da rigar horo orange ta ƙungiyar Curaçao. Inuwa ukun sun ɗan haɗu a cikin ruwan da ya watse. Sannan gadar ta sake rufewa a hankali. Kowace rana a Curaçao kamar wannan gada ce: kullum ana katse ta da jiragen ruwa, amma ba ta taɓa karyewa da gaske ba — kawai tana jiran jirgin ya wuce, sannan ta sake haɗuwa.