Uhambo lwebhola lwase-Ivory Coast: Kusuka e-Abidjan kuya e-Grand-Bassam, ukujaha ibhola elethula izwe

Ukufika e-Abidjan, umoya ongaphandle kwesikhumulo sezindiza wawunjengokumanziswe ulwandle, kushisa, kukhanya, futhi kunephunga lentuthu yenhlanzi eyosiwe. Itekisi lishayela libheke enkabeni yedolobha, umshayeli wafaka umsakazo esiteshini sezemidlalo, umsakazi esho amagama abadlali ngokushesha ngesiFulentshi. Ezwa u-Drogba, akazange aqalekise, wavele washaya isiteringi ngomunwe wathi: "Lapha wonke umuntu uyamazi."

E-Ivory Coast ukwenza ibhola + ezokuvakasha, kunzima ukuhlukanisa izinto ezimbili. Uya kubuka idolobha, idolobha lizoletha inkundla phambi kwakho; uya kulalela izindaba, ekugcineni indaba izobuyela kulelo jezi eliwolintshi.

I-Plateaux yase-Abidjan injengesikhungo sezezimali esiphuthuma ukuzifakazela. Izakhiwo eziphakeme, amabhange, izindonga zengilazi, imigwaqo eqondile, imigqa emhlophe ye-St. Paul's Cathedral isakazeka eduzane ne-lagoon, kuhle kwengathi useyili odonswa umoya. Ntambama ukuma eduze kwebhuloho ubuke isibhakabhaka, cishe uyokhohlwa ukuthi lena yiNtshonalanga Afrika. Abantu abagqoke amasudi emgwaqweni bephuma ezakhiweni zamahhovisi, izithuthuthu ziphithizela phakathi kwezimoto, izibani buqamama ziyakhanya kancane.

Kodwa ngosuku olulandelayo ukungena e-Adjame, i-Abidjan ishintsha ubuso. Lapha akukho ukuhleleka okupholile kwe-Plateaux, kunezitolo, izipikha, izindwangu, amajezi amadala, izinongo negagasi legagasi lamazwi abantu. Eduze kwesiteshi sezimoto, abathengisi bamajezi balengisa i-Chelsea, i-Marseille, neqembu lesizwe lase-Ivory Coast entanjeni efanayo. Ijezi elidala eliwolintshi lenombolo 11 liphephulwa umoya, kuhle kwengathi lisagijima. Umthengisi wathi: "U-Drogba akayena nje umdlali. Wasenza sakholwa ukuthi leli zwe lingama ukulalela umusho owodwa."

Ukhuluma ngendaba yeqiniso ka-2005 eseyingene emlandweni webhola. Emva kokuthi i-Ivory Coast ingene okokuqala eNdebeni Yomhlaba, u-Drogba kanye nozakwabo ekamelweni lokushintshashintsha baguqa ngamadolo phambi kwekhamera, banxusa izinhlangothi ezilwayo ukuthi zibeke phansi izikhali. Kwakungekhona ukukhangisa, kungeyona inganekwane eyapakishwa kamuva, kodwa kusethunzini lempi yombango, iqembu labantu abasha abadume kakhulu ezweni, lisebenzisa ibhola ukumemeza kuwo wonke umuntu. Kamuva ukumiswa kokulwa, izingxoxo, inqubo yokuthula akukwazanga ukuqedwa ngomdlalo owodwa, kodwa ngaleso sikhathi i-Ivory Coast yathola izwi elifanayo. Ibhola lenza abantu baba ngakolunye uhlangothi okwesikhashana, lokhu sekuvele kukhulu ngokwanele.

Kusuka e-Adjame, ngaya endaweni yokudlela i-maquis e-Treichville. Amatafula okhuni ambozwe ngendwangu yepulasitiki, i-attiéké injengeqhwa elicolekileyo esitsheni, eceleni kukhona inhlanzi eyosiwe, u-anyanisi, upelepele notamatisi. Umabonakude ulenga ekhoneni, umsindo mkhulu kunomculo. Abantu abaseduze ababephikisana ngentengo, kwathi uma isibuko sibonisa izikhathi ezinhle zeqembu lesizwe, bonke bama isigamu somzuzwana. Ukuphikisana akuzange kunyamalale, kwaphenduka nje ukuphikisana ngesikimu. Itafula labantu base-Ivory Coast lingaba nomsindo, kodwa uma ibhola selifikile, umsindo uba wulimi olufanayo.

Indlela eya e-Grand-Bassam ayikude, imoto isiminyana sase-Abidjan ukuphuma, umoya wasolwandle ususa iphunga likaphethiloli kancane. I-Grand-Bassam yayikade iyinhloko-dolobha ngesikhathi sobukoloni, manje izakhiwo ezindala ziyaxebuka, imigwaqo ithule, kodwa ulwandle lubanzi. Amagagasi asuka e-Gulf of Guinea ayaphakama, umbala wamanzi awukona okwesibhakabhaka njengamakhadi omposi, kodwa unamandla amaholo. Izingane ezisogwini lolwandle zikhahlela ibhola ngezinyawo ezingenalutho, igoli yizimbadada ezimbili. Abantu abadala bahleli ngaphansi kwamapulangwe bephuza ubhiya, intuthu yenkukhu nenhlanzi eyosiwe ihamba nomoya wasolwandle.

Ulwandle lapha lukhumbuza umuntu ukuthi uhambo alukhona nje ukuthatha izithombe. Ngo-2016, i-Grand-Bassam nayo yabhekana nokuhlasela nobuhlungu. Kodwa uhlala ogwini lolwandle, ubuka izingane zijaha ibhola, ubuka abathengisi besika ukhokhonathi, ubuka izivakashi nabantu bendawo bengaphansi komthunzi ofanayo, uzoqonda ukuthi amandla okuvuselela ase-Ivory Coast akusona isiqubulo. Akukhona ukukhohlwa okwedlule, kodwa ukuqhubeka nokuphila eceleni kokwedlule.

Ukushiya ugu, imoto iya e-Yamoussoukro. Emaceleni omgwaqo kunezihlahla zesundu, izihlahla zenjoloba namabhontshisi kakhokho omisiwe eceleni komgwaqo. I-Ivory Coast ingelinye lamazwe amakhulu kakhokho emhlabeni, kodwa ohambweni into ekhumbuleka ngempela, akulona ilebula "lomhlaba wokuqala," kodwa iphunga lalawo mabhontshisi ansundu asakazwe endwangwini yepulasitiki: ukuvutshelwa, ukuswakama, ubumnandi obomisiwe ilanga.

I-Basilica of Our Lady of Peace yase-Yamoussoukro yavela kude, ingelona iqiniso. Ivame ukuqhathaniswa ne-St. Peter's Basilica yase-Vatican, indophi enkulu, izinsika zesakhiwo nesigcawu esikhulu esingenalutho kwakufakwe emathafeni asenkabeni ye-Afrika. Ukungena ngaphakathi, izinyathelo zinanela emabula. Izingilazi ezinemibala zisakaza ukukhanya phansi, izivakashi aziziningi, kuthule kuze kuzwakale umoya opholileyo nezingoni ezikude. Le ndawo iyadida, futhi iyakhumbuleka: izwe elincane lisebenzisa isakhiwo esikhulu ukukhombisa ukuvelela kwaso, kodwa ngaphandle kwesakhiwo, ukholo lwangempela mhlawumbe lugeleza phakathi kwezimakethe, amasonto, ama-mosque, izinkundla namatafula emindeni.

Emuva e-Abidjan, indaba ka-Haller yaphinde yakhulunywa. Ngo-2022, esanda kujoyina i-Dortmund wathola i-testicular tumor. Ukuhlinzwa, ukwelashwa ngamakhemikhali, ukubuya, lokhu bekuvele kuyindaba enesisindo ngokwanele. Kwathi emqhudelwaneni we-African Cup of Nations ka-2023 owadlalwa ekuqaleni kuka-2024 ngenxa yobhubhane, wafaka amagoli e-Ivory Coast emidlalweni elandelanayo, futhi kowamanqamu washaya igoli lokunqoba elidlula i-Nigeria. I-Ivory Coast engumsingathi yawina, kuhle kwengathi ifilimu okungekho owayengabhala isikrini sayo kusengaphambili.

Ngalobo busuku ngaphinde ngadlula e-Plateaux. Izakhiwo eziphakeme zazikhanyisiwe, eduze kwe-lagoon izingane zikhahlela ibhola eligugile. Kude umsindo wase-Adjame wawungasalaleki, kodwa ngiyazi ukuthi usakhona, amagagasi ase-Grand-Bassam asakhona, indophi yase-Yamoussoukro isakhanya ebusuku. Uhambo lwebhola lwase-Ivory Coast akulona umzila wokujaha izihlabani, kodwa kuyindlela yokuqonda izwe: u-Drogba wenza abantu bakhumbule ukuthi ibhola lingacela ukumiswa kwempi, u-Haller wenza abantu babone ukuthi ngemva kokugula kusenomqhudelwano, kanti izingane emigwaqweni ziyakukhumbuza ukuthi zonke izinganekwane zaqala ngomuntu oyedwa, izinyawo ezimbili, nebhola elilodwa.

Uma ufuna nje ukubuka ulwandle, i-Ivory Coast inalo; uma ufuna nje ukubuka idolobha, i-Abidjan iyajabulisa ngokwanele. Kodwa isizathu sangempela sokuza, ukuthi lapha uzothola ukuthi ibhola alikaze libe ngumdlalo nje. Kungaba ijezi elidala emakethe, amapali ezimbadada ogwini lolwandle, izikhathi ezinhle kumakhalekhukhwini wonogada besonto elikhulu, futhi kungaba isivumelwano esithule izwe elisithola ngezinye izikhathi phakathi kokuphila okunomsindo.