Ukuhambela Ibholo Lase-Ivory Coast: Kusukela E-Abidjan Ukuya E-Grand-Bassam, Ukulandela Ibholo Elenza Izwe Lithule

Ukufika e-Abidjan, umoya ngaphandle kwesikhumulo sezindiza ufana nokufakwe emanzini olwandle, ushisa, ukhanya, futhi unephunga lentuthu yenhlanzi eyosiwe. Itekisi liqala ukuya edolobheni, umshayeli ubeka umsakazo esiteshini sezemidlalo, umsakazi efunda amagama wabadlali ngesiFulentshi. Ezwa u-Drogba, akazange aqalaza, wavele washaya isiteringi ngomunwe: "Wonke umuntu lapha uyamazi."

E-Ivory Coast ukwenza ibholo + uhambo, kunzima ukuhlukanisa izinto ezimbili. Uya kubuka idolobha, idolobha lizoletha inkundla phambi kwakho; uya kulalela indaba, indaba ekugcineni izobuyela kulelo jezi eliwolintshi.

I-Plateaux yase-Abidjan ifana nendawo yezezimali esheshisa ukuzifakazela. Izakhiwo eziphakeme, amabhangi, izindonga zengilazi, imigwaqo eqondile, imigqa emhlophe ye-St. Paul's Cathedral inwebeka eceleni kwe-lagoon, kufana neseyili edonswa ngumoya. Ntambama lapho umi eceleni kwebhuloho ubuka i-skyline, ucishe ukhohlwe ukuthi lokhu yi-West Africa. Eceleni komgwaqo abantu abagqoke amasudi baphuma ezakhiweni zamabhizinisi, izithuthuthu zigijima phakathi kwezimoto, izibani ezikude ziqala ukukhanya kancane.

Kodwa ngosuku olulandelayo lapho ungena e-Adjamé, i-Abidjan iguqula ubuso bawo. Lapha akukho ukuhleleka okuthulileyo kwe-Plateaux, kunamatende, iziqubulo, izindwangu, amajezi amadala, izinongo kanye namaza womsindo wabantu ngokulandelana. Eduze kwesiteshi samabhasi amade, umthengisi wamajezi wabeka i-Chelsea, i-Marseille neqembu lesizwe lase-Ivory Coast entanjeni eyodwa. Ijezi elidala eliwolintshi lenombolo yeshumi nanye laphephulwa ngumoya lakhuphuka, kufana nokugijima. Umthengisi wathi: "U-Drogba akayena nje umdlali. Wasenza sakholwa ukuthi leli zwe lingama lilalele amazwi ambalwa."

Wayekhuluma ngendaba eqotho ka-2005 eseyingene emlandweni webholo. Ngemva kokuthi i-Ivory Coast ifinyelele okokuqala eNdebeni Yomhlaba, u-Drogba kanye nabadlali bakanye nabo baguqa ngamadolo egumbini lokugqoka phambi kwekhamera, bacela izinhlangothi ezilwayo ukuthi zibeke phansi izikhali. Kwakungeyona inkangiso, kwakungeyona inganekwane epakishwe ngemva komcimbi, kodwa ngaphakathi kwesithunzi sempi yombango, iqembu elidume kakhulu lezwe lentsha, lisebenzisa ibholo ukumemezela kuwo wonke umuntu. Kamuva ukumiswa kwezikhali, izingxoxo, inqubo yokuthula ngeke kube ukuthi kwenzeka ngomdlalo owodwa kuphela, kodwa lowo mzuzu wenza i-Ivory Coast yaba nephimbo elifanayo ngokungazelelwe. Ibholo lenza abantu bama okwesikhashana ohlangothini olulodwa, lokhu kwase kuvele kukhulu ngokwanele.

Ngemva kokuphuma e-Adjamé, ngaya kwenye ye-maquis e-Treichville. Itafula lamapulangwe lalimbozwe izindwangu zepulasitiki, i-attiéké yayinjengeqhwa elicolekileyo esitsheni, eduze kwenhlanzi eyosiwe, u-anyanisi, upelepele notamatisi. Umabonakude wawulenga ekhoneni, umsindo wawo mkhulu kunomculo. Abantu etafuleni eliseduze ekuqaleni babephikisana ngentengo, lapho kuvela izithombe zeqembu lesizwe esikrinini, bonke bama isigamu sesekhondi. Ukuphikisana akuzange kunyamalale, kwaphenduka nje ukuphikisana ngokuhlelwa kweqembu. Itafula labantu base-Ivory Coast lingaba nomsindo, kodwa uma nje ibholo lifika, umsindo uphenduka ulimi olufanayo.

Umgwaqo oya e-Grand-Bassam awukude, imoto isuka ekuminyaneni kwe-Abidjan, umoya wasolwandle kancane uthambisa iphunga likaphetroli wedolobha. I-Grand-Bassam yake yaba likhapitali ngesikhathi samakholoni, namuhla izakhiwo ezindala ziyaguguleka, imigwaqo ithule, kodwa ulwandle lubanzi. Amagagasi asuka e-Gulf of Guinea, umbala awukona okwamaphosta ngaso sonke isikhathi, kodwa unamandla. Eceleni kolwandle izingane zikhahlela ibholo ngezinyawo, amapali angama-flip-flop amabili. Abantu abadala bahlala ngaphansi kwezindlu zamapulangwe bephuza ubhiya, intuthu yenkukhu eyosiwe nenhlanzi iphephulwa ngumoya wasolwandle.

Ulwandle lwendawo lukhumbuza umuntu ukuthi, ukuhamba akukhona nje ukuhlaba uphawu ezindaweni. Ngo-2016, i-Grand-Bassam nayo yehlelwa wukuhlasela nobuhlungu. Kodwa uhlala olwandle, ubuka izingane zigijima zilandela ibholo, ubuka abathengisi abancane bevula ukhokhonathi, ubuka izivakashi nabantu bendawo ngaphansi kwesithunzi esisodwa, uyaqonda ukuthi amandla okululama e-Ivory Coast akukhona isiqubulo. Akukhona ukukhohlwa okwedlule, kodwa ukuqhubeka nokuphila eceleni kokwedlule.

Ngemva kokushiya ugu, imoto iya e-Yamoussoukro. Ezinhlangothini zomgwaqo kunezihlahla zesundu, izihlahla zerabha, namabhontshisi e-cocoa omisiwe elangeni. I-Ivory Coast ingomunye wabakhiqizi abakhulu be-cocoa emhlabeni, kodwa ohambweni okukhumbuleka ngempela, akukhona ilebula elithi 'eyodwa emhlabeni,' kodwa iphunga lalawo mabhontshisi amdaka asakazwe ezindwangwini zepulasitiki: ukuvutshelwa, umswakama, ubumnandi oboshiswe lilanga.

I-Basilica of Our Lady of Peace yase-Yamoussoukro lapho ivela kude, ayikholakali. Ivamise ukuqhathaniswa ne-St. Peter's Basilica yase-Vatican, i-dome enkulu, ama-colonnade nenkundla engenalutho kufana nokufakwe phakathi kwamathafa ase-Afrika. Lapho ungena ngaphakathi, izinyathelo ziyakhala emabula. Izingilazi ezinemibala zilahla ukukhanya phansi, izivakashi azinengi, kuthule kangangokuthi ungazwa i-air conditioning nokukhala kwezinyoni kude. Le ndawo iyamangaza, futhi iyakhumbuleka: izwe elincane lisebenzisa isakhiwo esikhulu ukuzwakalisa ubuganga balo, kanti ngaphandle kwesakhiwo, ukukholwa kwangempela kungahle kugeleze phakathi kwezimakethe, amasonto, ama-mosque, izinkundla zamabholo namatafula emindeni.

Ukubuyela e-Abidjan, indaba ka-Haller yaphinde yakhulunywa ngayo. Ngo-2022, wayesanda kujoyina i-Borussia Dortmund lapho kutholwa ukuthi unesimila esibelethweni. Ukuhlinzwa, i-chemotherapy, ukubuya, lokhu kwase kuyindaba enzima ngokwanele. Kwathi kuma-Africa Cup of Nations ka-2023 okwadlalwa ekuqaleni kuka-2024 ngenxa yokuhlehla kwe-COVID, washaya amagoli amaningi e-Ivory Coast, futhi washaya igoli elinqobayo ekugcineni lokunqoba i-Nigeria. I-Ivory Coast yaba ngumpetha njengomsingathi, kufana nefilimu okungekho muntu owayengalokotha ayibhale ngaphambili.

Ngalobo busuku ngaphinde ngadlula e-Plateaux. Izakhiwo eziphakeme zazikhanyisiwe, eceleni kwe-lagoon izingane zazikhahlela ibholo elaligugile. Kude umsindo we-Adjamé wawungasazwakali, kodwa ngiyazi ukuthi wawusekhona, amagagasi ase-Grand-Bassam ayesekhona, ne-dome yase-Yamoussoukro isakhanya ebumnyameni. Ukuhambela ibholo lase-Ivory Coast akukhona umzila wokulandela izinkanyezi, kodwa umgwaqo wokuqonda izwe: u-Drogba wenza abantu bakhumbula ukuthi ibholo lingacela impi ukuthi iyeke, u-Haller wenza abantu babona ukuthi ngemva kokugula kusenomqhudelwano, kanti izingane emigwaqweni zikukhumbuza ukuthi, konke okuyinganekwane ekuqaleni kwakungumuntu oyedwa, izinyawo ezimbili, nebholo elilodwa.

Uma ufuna ukubona ulwandle kuphela, i-Ivory Coast inolwandle; uma ufuna ukubona idolobha kuphela, i-Abidjan nayo ihle ngokwanele. Kodwa isizathu sangempela sokuza, ukuthi lapha uzothola ukuthi, ibholo alikaze libe ngumdlalo nje. Kungaba yijezi elidala emakethe, kube ngamapali e-flip-flop olwandle, kube yizithombe kumafoni wabalindi be-cathedral, futhi kube yisivumelwano ezweni elinomsindo lapho ngezinye izikhathi kufinyelelwa khona ukuthula okwabelwanwa ngakho.