Uhambo lwebhola lwase-Ivory Coast: Ukusuka e-Abidjan ukuya e-Grand-Bassam, ukujaha ibhola eyenza ilizwe lithi cwaka

Ukufika e-Abidjan, umoya ongaphandle kwesikhululo seenqwelomoya wawufana nokufakwe emanzini olwandle, kushushu, kukhanya, kukwanalo nevhumba lomsi wentlanzi eyojiweyo. Iteksi yayiqhuba isiya embindini wedolophu, umqhubi wafaka irediyo kwisikhululo sezemidlalo, umsasazi ebiza amagama abadlali ngokukhawuleza ngesi-Frentshi. Ukuva u-Drogba, akazange ajonge ngasemva, wabetha nje isiteringi ngomnwe wathi: "Apha wonke umntu uyamazi."

E-Ivory Coast ukwenza ibhola + ezokhenketho, kunzima ukwahlula ezi zinto zimbini. Uya kubukela idolophu, idolophu iya kubeka ibala phambi kwakho; uya kuphulaphula amabali, ekugqibeleni ibali liya kubuyela kuloo jezi i-orenji.

I-Plateaux yase-Abidjan ifana neziko lezemali elingxamileyo ukuzingqina. Izakhiwo eziphakamileyo, iibhanki, iifestile zeglasi, iindlela ezithe ngqo, imigca emhlophe ye-St. Paul's Cathedral isasazeka ecaleni kwe-lagoon, kufana neseyile edonswa ngumoya. Ngorhatya ukuma ecaleni kwebhulorho ubukele i-skyline, phantse uya kulibala ukuba le yiNtshona Afrika. Abantu abanxibe iisuti ezitratweni bephuma kwizakhiwo zee-ofisi, izithuthuthu ziphithizela phakathi kwezimoto, izibane ezikude zikhanya ngokucothayo.

Kodwa ngosuku olulandelayo ukungena e-Adjame, i-Abidjan itshintshe ubuso. Apha akukho lucwangco luzolileyo lwe-Plateaux, kukho iindawo zokuthengisa, izandla-lizwi, amalaphu, iijezi ezindala, iziqholo kunye namaza ngamaza ezwi labantu. Ecaleni kwesikhululo sezithuthi, abathengisi bejezi baxhoma i-Chelsea, i-Marseille, kunye neqela lesizwe lase-Ivory Coast kwintambo enye. Ijezi endala e-orenji yenombolo 11 yayiphephulwa ngumoya, kufana nokuba isabaleka. Umthengisi wathi: "U-Drogba akangomdlali nje. Wasenza sakholelwa ukuba eli lizwe lingema ukuva isivakalisi esinye."

Wayethetha ngebali lenyani lika-2005 eselingene kwimbali yebhola. Emva kokuba i-Ivory Coast ingene okokuqala kwiNdebe yeHlabathi, u-Drogba kunye nabanye abadlali babeguqe ngamadolo phambi kwekhamera, bacela amacala alwayo ukuba abeke phantsi izixhobo. Kwakungeyontengiso, yayingelobali elipakiweyo, kodwa phakathi kwethunzi lemfazwe yamakhaya, elona qela lidumileyo labantu abatsha elizweni, lisebenzisa ibhola ukukhwaza kuwo wonke umntu. Emva koko ukupheliswa kokulwa, iingxoxo, inkqubo yoxolo ayikwazanga ukugqitywa ngomdlalo omnye, kodwa ngalo mzuzu i-Ivory Coast ngequbuliso yaba nelizwi elifanayo. Ibhola yenza abantu baba kwicala elinye okwethutyana, oku sele kukhulu ngokwaneleyo.

Ukuphuma e-Adjame, ndaya kwi-maquis e-Treichville. Iitafile zomthi zimbozwe ngelaphu leplastiki, i-attiéké ifana nekhephu eliqhekezekileyo esityeni, ecaleni kwayo kukho intlanzi eyojiweyo, itswele, ipepile kunye neetumato. Umabonakude ujinga ekoneni, isandi sikhulu kunomculo. Abantu ababesecaleni babeqala bephikisana ngexabiso, xa iscreen sabonisa izinto eziphambili zeqela lesizwe, bonke bema isiqingatha somzuzwana. Ukuphikisana akuzange kuphele, kwatshintsha nje kwaba kukuphikisana ngesikim. Itafile yabantu base-Ivory Coast ingaba nengxolo, kodwa xa ibhola ifikile, ingxolo iya kuba lulwimi olufanayo.

Indlela eya e-Grand-Bassam ayikude, imoto iphuma kwisiphithiphithi sase-Abidjan, umoya wasolwandle ususa ivumba lepetroli ngokucothayo. I-Grand-Bassam yayikhe yaba likomkhulu ngexesha lobukoloniyali, ngoku izakhiwo ezindala ziyaxebuka, izitrato zithule, kodwa unxweme lubanzi. Amaza asuka kwi-Gulf of Guinea atyhalela phezulu, umbala wamanzi awusoloko uluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka njengeposikhadi, kodwa unamandla aqinileyo. Abantwana abaselunxwemeni bakhaba ibhola ngeenyawo ezinganambadada, amapali zizimbadada ezimbini. Abadala bahleli phantsi kweefreyimu zamaplanga besela ibhiya, umsi wenkukhu eyojiweyo kunye nentlanzi uhamba nomoya wasolwandle.

Ulwandle apha lukhumbuza umntu ukuba, uhambo alukuthathwa nje kweefoto. Ngo-2016, i-Grand-Bassam nayo yabandezeleka kuhlaselo nobuhlungu. Kodwa uhlala elunxwemeni, ubukele abantwana beleqa ibhola, ubukele abathengisi beqhekeza iikhokhonathi, ubukele abakhenkethi kunye nabantu balapha bephantsi komthunzi omnye, uya kuqonda ukuba amandla okuphinda aphile e-Ivory Coast akasosiqubulo. Asikokulibala okudlulileyo, kodwa kukuqhubeka nokuphila ecaleni kwexesha elidlulileyo.

Ukushiya unxweme, imoto iya e-Yamoussoukro. Emacaleni endlela kukho imithi yesundu, imithi yerabha kunye neembotyi zekokho ezomiswe ecaleni kwendlela. I-Ivory Coast lelinye lamazwe amakhulu ekokho ehlabathini, kodwa kuhambo into eyenza umntu akhumbule, ayisiyo leyibhile "yehlabathi lokuqala," kodwa livumba lezo mbotyi zimdaka zisasazwe kwilaphu leplastiki: ukuvubela, ukufuma, ubumnandi obomiswe lilanga.

I-Basilika ye-Lady of Peace yase-Yamoussoukro yavela kude, ingekho yokwenyani. Ihlala ithelekiswa ne-St. Peter's Basilica yase-Vatican, indophi enkulu, iikholomu kunye nebala elikhulu elingena nto kwafakwa kumathafa asembindini we-Afrika. Ukungena ngaphakathi, izinyathelo zinanela kwimarmore. Iglasi enemibala isasaza ukukhanya phantsi, abakhenkethi bambalwa, kuthule kangangokuba uve i-aircon kunye neentaka ezikude. Le ndawo iyadida, kwaye iyakhumbuleka: ilizwe elincinci lisebenzisa isakhiwo esikhulu ukubonisa amabhongo alo, kodwa ngaphandle kwesakhiwo, ukholo lokwenyani mhlawumbi luhamba phakathi kweemarike, iicawa, iimosque, amabala kunye neetafile zeentsapho.

Emva e-Abidjan, ibali lika-Haller laphinda lakhankanywa. Ngo-2022, esanda kujoyina i-Dortmund, wafumanisa ukuba unethumba lesende. Utyando, ichemotherapy, ukubuya, oku bekuyibali elinzima ngokwaneleyo. Emva koko kwi-African Cup of Nations ka-2023 eyadlalwa ekuqaleni kuka-2024 ngenxa yobhubhani, wafaka amagowuli e-Ivory Coast emidlalweni elandelanayo, kumdlalo wamagqibela wafaka igowuli lokuphumelela elidlula i-Nigeria. I-Ivory Coast ingumbuki wezindwendwe yaphumelela, kufana nefilimu kwakungekho mntu wayenokuyibhala isikrini sayo kwangaphambili.

Ngobo busuku ndaphinda ndadlula e-Plateaux. Izakhiwo eziphakamileyo zazikhanyisiwe, ecaleni kwe-lagoon abantwana babekhaba ibhola egugileyo. Kude ingxolo yase-Adjame yayingasavakali, kodwa ndiyazi ukuba isekhona, amaza ase-Grand-Bassam asekhona, indophi yase-Yamoussoukro isakhanya kubusuku. Uhambo lwebhola lwase-Ivory Coast aluyindlela yokujaha iinkwenkwezi, kodwa yindlela yokuqonda ilizwe: u-Drogba wenza abantu bakhumbule ukuba ibhola ingacela ukupheliswa kwemfazwe, u-Haller wenza abantu babone ukuba emva kokugula kusekho ubuntshatsheli, kwaye abantwana kuzo zonke izitrato bakukhumbuza ukuba, zonke iintsomi zaqala ngomntu omnye, iinyawo ezimbini, ibhola enye.

Ukuba ufuna nje ukubukela ulwandle, i-Ivory Coast inalo; ukuba ufuna nje ukubukela idolophu, i-Abidjan iyachulumancisa ngokwaneleyo. Kodwa esona sizathu sokwenyani sokuza, kukuba apha uya kufumanisa ukuba, ibhola ayikaze ibe ngumdlalo nje. Inokuba yijezi endala emarikeni, ngamapali ezimbadada elunxwemeni, zizinto eziphambili kwifowuni kabani wecawa enkulu, kwaye inokuba sisivumelwano esithuleyo ilizwe elifumana ngamaxesha athile phakathi kobomi obunengxolo.