Luhambo lwebhola lwaseCôte d'Ivoire: Kusuka e-Abidjan kuya eGrand-Bassam, kulandzela ibhola lelenta live lathula

Ekufikeni e-Abidjan, umoya ngaphandle kwesikhumulo setindiza bewufana nekunyise lwandle, ushisa, ukhanya, futhi unemuntfu lomncane wenhanti. Imoto yaya edolobheni, umshayeli wavula umsakatelo etiteshini temidlalo, umsasati watsi emagama emadlodlo ngeFrench ngekushesha. Nangiva uDrogba, akazange abheke emuva, vele washaya sibhakela ngalokusemthethweni: 'Wonkhe muntfu lapha uyamati.'

ECôte d'Ivoire, kwenta ibhola+kuhamba, kunzima kwehlukanisa tintfo letimbili. Uya edolobheni, lidolobha likuniketa inkundla; uya kulalela tindzaba, tindzaba tiphindze tibuyele kulelo jezi le-orange.

I-Plateaux yase-Abidjan ifana nesikhungo setimali lesijahile. Tindlu letiphakeme, emahovisi, tincwephetsi, imigwaco lemile, imitfwebulo yemigca lemhlophe yase-St. Paul's Cathedral ivuleka eceleni kwelwandle, ifana neseyili ledvonswa ngumoya. Ngekuhlwa uma umi eceleni kwelibhuloho ubuka umkhathizwe, ucishe ukhohlwe kutsi lokhu kuseNshonalanga yeAfrika. Bantfu labagcoke emasudi baphuma emahovisi, timoto tesitimela tihamba ekucindzetelweni kwetimoto, emalambu kukhashane avuleka.

Kodvwa ngelilanga lelilandzelako nangena e-Adjamé, i-Abidjan yashintja buso. Lapha akunakho kuhleleka ngekuthula kwase-Plateaux, kuphela emapulatifomu, emahubhu, tindvwangu, emajezi lamadzala, tinongo, kanye nemazwi ebantfu. Eceleni kwesiteshi selibhasi, umtsengisi wemajezi walenga iChelsea, iMarseille, kanye neLicembu Lesive laseCôte d'Ivoire etsambo linye. Ijezi lelidzala le-orange lenombolo 11 laphephulwa ngumoya, kufana nekutsi lisagijima. Umtsengisi watsi: 'UDrogba akasiwo nje umdlali. Usente sakholwa kutsi lelive lingema lilalele livi linye.'

Bekakhuluma ngalendzaba ya-2005 leseyingenile emlandvweni webhola. Ngesikhatsi iCôte d'Ivoire ingena eNdebeni yeMhlaba kwekucala, uDrogba nemadlodlo akanye nawo aguca ekamelweni lekugucala, ancusa emacenja laphikisanako kuhlisa tikhali. Bekungasiko kukhangisa, hhayi lokupakishiwe kamuva, kodvwa ngesikhatsi semphi yangaphakathi, lelicembu lelidvume kunato tonkhe, lasebentisa ibhola kumemeta wonkhe umuntfu. Kuma empi, kucocisana, kuthula akuzange kwentiwe ngumdlalo munye kuphela, kodvwa lowo mzuzu wenta iCôte d'Ivoire yaba nelizwi lelifanako. Ibhola lenta bantfu bema ohlangothini lunye, loku sekukhulu ngokwanele.

Kusuka e-Adjamé, ngaya emaqinisini e-Treichville. Etafuleni lemaphulanhloko bekunetindvwangu tepulasitiki, i-attiéké ifana nelichwa lelihleliwe epuletini, eceleni kwayo inhlanti leyojiwe, anyanisi, uphepha, kanye neutamatisi. ITV yalengiswa ekhoneni, umsindvo wayo mkhulu kunemculo. Emadvodza asetafuleni lelisedvute abephikisana ngentengo, ngesikhatsi sitfombe selicembu sibonakala, bonkhe bema. Kuphikisana akuzange kuphele, kwashintja nje kwaba kuphikisana ngetinhlanganisela. Ematafula ebantfu baseCôte d'Ivoire angaba nemuntfu, kodvwa nangabe ibhola lifika, umsindvo uba lulwimi lolufanako.

Indlela leya eGrand-Bassam ayikho kakhulu, imoto yaphuma ekucindzetelweni kwase-Abidjan, umoya welwandle wasusa umuntfu wepetroli kancane. IGrand-Bassam beyilihlokohlela lelikoloni, nyalo takhiwo letindzala tiyavuleka, imigwaco ithulile, kodvwa lwandle luvulekile. Emagagasi asuka eGulf of Guinea, umbala wawo awukona ngaso sonkhe sikhatsi luhlata lwemakhadsi, kodvwa unemandla lamabi. Eceleni kwelwandle bantfwana badlala ibhola ngetinyawo letihlangene, emagoli ngemaslobho lamabili. Labadzala bahleli ngephansi kwemapulangwe baphuza emabhiya, umuntfu wekosa inkhukhu nenhlanti uhamba ngelwandle.

Lolwandle luyakhumbuta kutsi kuhamba akusikho nje kuhlaba tikhashana. Nga-2016, iGrand-Bassam nayo yaba nekuhlaselwa kanye nebuhlungu. Kodvwa uma uhleli elwandle, ubukele bantfwana bajaha ibhola, ubukele umtsengisi avula emakhokhonati, ubukele tivakashi kanye nebantfu bendawo kusitfunti sinye, uyabona kutsi emandla ekubuyisela eCôte d'Ivoire akusikho emazwi nje. Akusikho kukhohlwa lokwedlule, kodvwa kuphila eceleni kwako.

Ngemva kwekuhamba elwandle, imoto yaya eYamoussoukro. Eceleni kwemgwaco kunemaphesentolo, imidliniso, kanye nemakhophi lahlangululwa. ICôte d'Ivoire ingulenye yetive letinkhulu emhlabeni kumakhophi, kodvwa lohambweni, lokukhumbulekako akusikho lelo ligama 'lwekucala emhlabeni,' kodvwa umuntfu waletincwadzi letinsundu letendlalwe epulasitikini: umuntfu wekuhluma, umuntfu, kumnandzi kwelilanga.

I-Basilica of Our Lady of Peace yaseYamoussoukro ngesikhatsi ibonakala kukhashane, ayikholakali. Ivame kufananiswa ne-St. Peter's Basilica eVatican, indlwana lenkhulu, tinkhonkhono, kanye nebaladi lelikhulu kufana nekufakwe phakatsi kwelive laseAfrika. Ngesikhatsi ungena, umsindvo wetinyatselo ukhala emabhaleni. Ingilazi lenemibala yendlala kukhanya phansi, tivakashi timbalwa, kuthula lapho ungave umoya wemoya kanye netinyoni kukhashane. Lendzawo iyadida, futhi iyakhumbuleka: live lelisencane lisebentisa takhiwo letinkhulu kukhombisa emaphupho alo, kantsi ngephandle kwesakhiwo, kukholwa lokungokoqobo kungahamba emakethe, emasontfweni, emakhosholo, etinkundleni, kanye nasematafuleni emindeni.

Ngesikhatsi ngibuyela e-Abidjan, indzaba yaHaller yaphindze yavela. Nga-2022, ngesikhatsi asanda kujoyina i-Borussia Dortmund, watfolwa ane-testicular tumor. Kuhlinzwa, kukhemotha, kubuya, loku bekuseyindzaba lenzima ngokwanele. Bese kumqhudelwano we-Afrika we-2023 lowadlalwa ngo-2024, wadlalela iCôte d'Ivoire, washaya emagoli kuwonkhe umqhudelwano, ekugcineni washaya umgomo ekugcineni ekuholeni kweNigeria. ICôte d'Ivoire yanqoba, kufana nefilimu lebengakhona kubhalwa kusenesikhatsi.

Ngalobo busuku ngaphindze ngadlula e-Plateaux. Tindlu letiphakeme betikhanyile, eceleni kwelwandle kunebantfwana badlala ibhola lelidzabukile. Umsindvo we-Adjamé wawungeke uveke, kodvwa ngiyati kutsi usesekhona, emagagasi aseGrand-Bassam asekhona, kanye nendvwana yaseYamoussoukro isenjalo ebusuku. Luhambo lwebhola lwaseCôte d'Ivoire akusikho nje kulandzela tinkhanyezi, kodvwa yindlela yekucondza live: uDrogba wenta bantfu bakhumbula kutsi ibhola lingakwati kucela kuma umlilo, uHaller wenta bantfu babone kutsi ngisho nangabe ugulile, kungaba khona kuhlula, futsi bantfwana basemgwacweni bakhumbuta kutsi konkhe kucala ngumuntfu munye, tinyatselo letimbili, ibhola linye.

Nangabe ufuna nje kubona lwandle, iCôte d'Ivoire inalo; nangabe ufuna nje kubona lidolobha, i-Abidjan nayo iyahlaba umxhwele. Kodvwa sizatfu lesikahle kakhulu sekuza, kutsi lapha utawutfola kutsi ibhola likhulu kunemidlalo. Kungaba ijezi lelidzala emakethe, emagoli emaslobho elwandle, emakhalekhukhwini abalindi bethempeli, kanye nesivumelwano lesithule lelive lelifinyelelike naliphindze lingabi khona ekuhlebeni kwemphilo.