Uhambo lwase-Senegal: Ibhola enye ilithunga njani ilizwe ndawonye

Isandi sokuqala sohambo lwase-Senegal, yayingengoma amaza, kwaye yayingesosaziso sesikhululo seenqwelomoya, kodwa yayisisandi sebhola ibetha eludongeni. Imoto isuka kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya i-Blaise Diagne isiya e-Dakar, emacaleni endlela kukho imithi ye-baobab kunye neebhodi zezibhengezo eziphephukile ngumoya; xa singena edolophini, umoya wasolwandle uba netyuwa, ezothutho nazo azinaso isiphelo. Iiteksi, iinqwelo zamahhashi, izithuthuthu, abathengisi kunye nabahamba ngeenyawo kufana nomdlalo ongenampempe, umntu ngamnye efuna indawo yakhe, kodwa kunqabile ukuba bangqubeke. Ngorhatya e-Yoff beach, abantwana babeka izimbadada ezimbini njengamapali, bekhaba esantini esimanzi kude kube mnyama. Akukho ngca, akukho mfaniswano, kukho nje ibhola endala kunye neqela lamakhwenkwe akhwaza ade atshabhise amazwi. Ngelo xesha ndaqonda ukuba, into ebizwa ngebhola + ezokhenketho, e-Senegal ayikokuthi "bukela umdlalo ngelixa usiya kukhenketha," kodwa kukusuka ebholeni ungena elizweni.

Ibhola yesitalato sase-Dakar iyakhawuleza, njengokuphefumla kwesi sixeko. Ibhola iqengqeleka idlula kwinqwelo ethengisa ikofu, idlula ezinyaweni zexhego elilungisa iminatha yokuloba, ifike esazulwini sendlela, umqhubi uza kukhalisa ihutha elifutshane, umntwana ayibuyise ibhola, umdlalo uqhubeke. Omunye unxibe i-10 ka-Mané, omunye unxibe okuluhlaza kweqela lesizwe lika-Koulibaly, omunye uhamba ngeenyawo. Uyabuza ukuba bathanda bani, impendulo ayifuni nokuqikelela: ngu-Mané. Eli gama e-Dakar aliyondaba yeenkwenkwezi, kodwa kufana nephasiwedi eqhelekileyo. Umthengisi wejezi wandixelela ukuba u-Mané uvela e-Bambali emazantsi, emva koko waya e-Génération Foot e-Dakar, emva koko waya e-France, e-Austria, e-Southampton, e-Liverpool, "kodwa akazange alibale ikhaya." Watsho oku, eyolula ijezi, kufana nokuba ubonisa iflegi yesizwe.

Ngosuku olulandelayo ukuya e-Gorée Island, isandi sebhola sasuswa ngequbuliso. Ukusuka kwiziko leenqanawa lase-Dakar ngesikhephe kuthatha nje imizuzu engamashumi amabini, kodwa ingxolo yedolophu kufana nokuba inqanyulwe lulwandle. Izindlu esiqithini zimbala o-orenji-bomvana, omhlophe-tyheli, i-bougainvillea ijinga ezindongeni, intle de iphantse yenze umntu angakhululeki. Emva koko ungena e-Maison des Esclaves, ungena kulawo magumbi asezantsi, afumileyo, axineneyo, uya kuqonda ukuba oku kungakhululeki kuvela phi. Into ebizwa ngokuthi "yiDoor of No Return" ijonge kuLwandlekazi lwe-Atlantic, ngaphandle komnyango kukho ulwandle oluqaqambileyo. Alukho icala lembali yobukoloniyali elilula ngenxa yokuba lipeyintwe ngemibala emihle. Ukuma apho, ndakhumbula izinyawo zabantwana abaleqa ibhola e-Dakar beach: ilizwe kufuneka lenze njani ukuze kwimbali yokuthathwa, yokuthiywa, yokuphucwa, liphinde lithethe "singoobani"?

Impendulo yase-Senegal, idla ngokungabi yintetho, kodwa kukutya, ikomityi yeti, umdlalo webhola. Emva e-Dakar, ndatya i-Thiéboudienne kwindawo yokutyela encinci, intlanzi, iitumato, iminqwazi, i-cassava kunye nerayisi zibekwe esityeni esikhulu esingqukuva. Indoda eyayihleli ecaleni yandibona ndisebenzisa icephe ngokungacacanga, yahleka yandibonisa ukuba ndisebenzise isandla, ndiyikhamanqise irayisi kunye nentlanzi ndenze amaqhekeza amancinci. Umabonakude wawuphinda umdlalo we-African Cup, uhlaselo lwafika ngaphambi kwebhokisi, wonke umntu endlwini wayephakamisa iintloko ngaxeshanye. Ngelo xesha, abantu ongabaziyo, ulwimi, imithetho yetafile kwakungabalulekanga. Ibhola yasidibanisa okwethutyana kwigumbi elinye, kufana nokuba logama nje ibhola isaqengqeleka, sinokuhlala sifumana icala elifanayo.

I-Lake Retba elangeni ayikafani ncam njengakwifoto. Abantu basekuhlaleni bathi, umbala wechibi utshintsha ngokwamaxesha onyaka, ngobuninzi betyuwa nangomphakamo wamanzi, ngamanye amaxesha upinki ngokucacileyo, ngamanye amaxesha unombala nje ophaphathekileyo. Kodwa into eyenza umntu awukhumbule ngokwenene ayingombala, kodwa yityuwa. Abasebenzi betyuwa bemi emanzini afikelela esinqeni, befaka iikristale esikhepheni, eluswini beqabe ibhotolo ye-shea ukuzikhusela kwityuwa. Elunxwemeni iimfumba zetyuwa zimhlophe njengekhephu, xa umoya uvunguza, nemilebe iba netyuwa. Kude kukho abakhenkethi abangena emanzini bedada, intsini incinci; abasebenzi betyuwa baqhubeka nokugoba, intshukumo yabo izinzile njengewotshi. Le ndawo iyakukhumbuza ukuba, iifoto zohambo zithatha umzuzwana nje omnye, kodwa ubomi kufuneka buphindaphindeke ixesha elide. Ubuhle base-Senegal, buhlala bubotshwe kunye nokusebenza, ukulinda, umonde.

Kungenxa yoko ke ibali lika-Mané liba nobunzima obukhethekileyo apha. Akayomveliso epakishwe ngobunono ephuma kwiziko lemfundo elityebileyo, kodwa ngumntwana ophuma kumaphandle ase-Senegal athuleyo, ukusuka e-Tambacounda ukuya e-Casamance. Apho kukude nezibane, kodwa kukufutshane nebhola. Umhlaba obomvu wase-Bambali, inkcaso yosapho, ishumi elinesihlanu leminyaka ukuya e-Dakar ukujaha iphupha, uvavanyo e-Génération Foot, ubusuku be-Champions League e-Liverpool, le ndlela ukuba ibhalwa nje njengebali elikhuthazayo ilula kakhulu. Eyona nto ibalulekileyo yeyokuba emva kokuphumelela wabuyisela imali elalini: isikolo, isibhedlele, i-intanethi, izibonelelo zoluntu. Kudliwanondlebe ne-Guardian, wachaza ukuba kutheni kwakufuneka akhe isibhedlele, kuba xa wayesemncinci utata wakhe wagula, elalini kwakungekho sibhedlele, wathathwa wayiswa kwenye indawo, ekugqibeleni akaphinda wabuya. Ngoko ibhola kuye ayiseyondlela nje yokuphakama komntu ngamnye, kodwa sisakhono sokubuyela ekhaya.

Andizange ndiye e-Bambali, kodwa ezitratweni zase-Dakar ndabona isithunzi sayo. Umfana okhokela ibhola esantini, umzimba utyekele phambili, intshukumo ifana kakhulu no-Mané engena ngaphakathi esuka kwicala lasekhohlo; abantwana abancinci bemi bejonge, amehlo ekhanya ngathi ajonge kwixesha elizayo. Abathengisi, abaqhubi, abanini-vevenkile xa bethetha ngeqela lesizwe, ilizwi labo alikokuthi "bona," kodwa kukuthi "thina." Isidlaliso "IiNgonyama ze-Teranga" sichanekile: i-Teranga kukwamkela iindwendwe, kwaye luluntu; ingonyama likratshi, kwaye yindlela yokukhusela umhlaba. Ibhola e-Senegal ayisiyonto yokuzonwabisa ngeempelaveki, sisibophelelo sentlalo, bubuni, yindlela izixeko neelali eziqinisekisana ngayo.

Ngomnye ubusuku bokugqibela phambi kokuba ndihambe e-Dakar, ndaphinda ndaya elwandle. Isibhakabhaka sasimnyama, ecaleni kwebala kwakungekho zibane, abantwana babengekafuni ukuyeka. Ibhola yayiqengqeleka ethunzini, ngamanye amaxesha iphephulwa ngumoya wasolwandle, ngamanye amaxesha ikhatywa ingena emagagasini. Kude i-Atlantic Ocean yayimnyama, njengolwandle olufanayo olungaphandle kwengcango yase-Gorée Island; ngasemva idolophu yayikhanya, njengokukhanya okuphuma kwiimfumba zetyuwa ze-Lake Retba. Into engalibalekiyo ngohambo lwase-Senegal, ayikokuba indawo ethile intle kangakanani, kodwa kukuba uya kuqonda ngokucothayo: eli lizwe linika umonzakalo, umsebenzi, ububele kunye namabhongo kwibhola enye ukuba iwutolike. Ucinga ukuba ulandela u-Mané, emva kwexesha ufumanise ukuba u-Mané nje ukhwaza ngaphezulu into i-Senegal esele iyazi kudala: ibhola ekhatywa ngumntu omnye, ekugqibeleni kufuneka ibuyele ezinyaweni zawo wonke umntu.