Luhambo lwaseSenegal: Indlela ibhola linye leliphotfula ngayo live

Umsindvo wekucala weluhambo lwaseSenegal, bekungasiwo emagagasi, noma umsakato wesikhumulo setindiza, kodvwa ibhola lishaya elubondzeni. Imoto yahamba esikhumulweni setindiza i-Blaise Diagne yaya eDakar, eceleni kwemgwaco kunetihlahla tema-baobab kanye nemabhodlela laphephukile; ngesikhatsi singena edolobheni, umoya welwandle waba munyu ngekushesha, umgwaco wangena ngekushesha. Ematekisi, emakalishi, timoto, batsengisi, kanye nahabambi bafana nemdlalo longakahlulelwa, wonkhe umuntfu utsatse indzawo yakhe, kodvwa kuncane lapho bahlangana khona. Ebusuku e-Yoff Beach, bantfwana babeka emaslobho lamabili njengemagoli, badlala esihlabatsini lesimanzi kuze kube mnyama. Kute tjani, kute iyunifomu, kuphela ibhola lelidzala kanye nemfana lamemeta aze aphuke lizwi. Ngaleso sikhatsi ngabona, lokubitwa ngekutsi ibhola+kuhamba, eSenegal akusikho 'kubuka umdlalo bese uhamba,' kodvwa kungena eveni ngebhola linye.

Ibhola lemigwaco yaseDakar liyashesha, kufana nekuphefumula kwalelidolobha. Ibhola ligingqa eceleni kwaletinye tinkhonkwane tekutsengisa ikhofi, eceleni kwetinyawo temadvodza lamadzala lapheca emanetha, nasemgudvulweni, umshayeli ukhala kancane, umntfwana abuyise ibhola, umdlalo uchubeke. Lomunye ugcoke inombolo 10 kaMané, lomunye ijezi lelicembu lesive lelikuhlata lakaKoulibaly, lomunye unyawo loluhlangene. Uyababuta kutsi ngubani lomtsandzako, imphendvulo icishe ingabuzwa: Mané. Leligama eDakar akusikho tintsaba tebantfu labadvumile, kodvwa lifana nemlayeto lofanako. Umtsengisi wejezi wangitsi, uMané uvela eBambali eningizimu, wafika eDakar e-Génération Foot, waya eFrance, e-Austria, eSouthampton, eLiverpool, 'kodvwa akazange akhohlwe likhaya.' Watsi loko aphetse ijezi, walendlala, kufana nekubonisa ifulegi.

Ngelilanga lelilandzelako ngaya eGorée Island, umsindvo webhola watsatfwa ngekushesha. Esikhumulweni saseDakar, umkhumbi utsatse imizuzu lengu-20, umsindvo welidolobha ufana nekuvinjwa lwandle. Tindlu tasesiqhingini tinemibala ye-orange lekhanyako, liphuzi, timbali te-bougainvillea tehla etindongeni, kuhle kakhulu lokukwenta ungakhululeki. Bese ungena e-Maison des Esclaves, ungena ekamelweni leliphansi, lelimanzi, lelimncane, bese uyabona kutsi lokungakhululeki kuvelaphi. 'Umnyango longabuyeli' ubheke e-Atlantic, ngephandle kukhona lwandle lolukhanyako. Kute umlandvo wemakoloni longaba lula ngenca yekupendwa ngemibala lemihle. Ngimi lapho, ngikhumbula umsindvo wetinyawo tebantfwana eDakar: live kufanele likwati kanjani kuphindze lisho 'singobani' emlandvweni wekutsatfwa, wekubitwa, wekuphucwa?

Impendvulo yaseSenegal, akuvamile kuba yinkhulumo, kodvwa kudla, inkomishi yetiye, umdlalo. Ngemuva ekaya eDakar, ngadla i-Thiéboudienne esitolo lesincane, inhlanti, utamatisi, emakherothi, emadumbe, nelayisi kuhlanganiswe esitsheni lesikhulu. Indvodza yasetafuleni yangibona ngiphatsa lipuleti, yahleka yangifundzisa, ngekuhlanganisa nelayisi nenyama yenhlanti. Ku-TV bekudlalwa emuva kweNdebe ye-Afrika, kuhlasela kufika embikwenkundla, wonkhe umuntfu endlini waphakamisa inhloko. Ngaleso sekondi, tihambi, tilimi, imikhuba yasetafuleni akusabalulekanga. Ibhola lasifaka egunjini linye, kufana nekutsi nangabe ibhola lisaginqika, singatfola indlela yinye.

I-Lac Rose elangeni ayifani nasesitfombeni. Bantfu bendawo batsi umbala welwandle uyashintja ngesizini, emanti lasawoti, kanye nezinga lemanti, ngesinye sikhatsi uba pinki ngekugcwele, ngesinye sikhatsi uba nemuntfu we-pink lomnene. Kodvwa lokwenta ukhumbule, akusikho umbala, kodvwa ngusawoti. Tisebenti temasawoti tema emantini, tihlanganise emakhristali esikebheni, tikhumba tigcotjwe nge-shea butter. Eceleni kwemanti kunetindvundvuma temasawoti letimhlophe njenjelichwa, nangabe umoya uvunguza, tindzebe tiba munyu. Kukhashane tivakashi tingena emantini, kuhleka kuncane; tisebenti temasawoti tichubeka, kuhamba kwato kucinile njenewashi. Lokukukhumbuta kutsi titfombe tekuhamba titsatsa sekondi linye, kodvwa kuphila kudzinga iminyaka leminyenti. Kuhle kwaseSenegal, kuhlale kuboshwe kusebenta, kulindza, nekubeketela.

Kungaleso sizatfu indzaba kaMané iba nesindvo lapha. Akasiwo umuntfu lowafundziswa esikolweni lesicebile, kodvwa ngumntfwana lovela eSenegal yasemakhaya, kusuka eTambacounda kuya eCasamance. Lendzawo ikhashane netinkhanyiso, kodvwa isedvute nebhola. Umhlaba lobovu waseBambali, kungavunyelwa ngumndeni, iminyaka lengu-15 aye eDakar, tivivinyo te-Génération Foot, ubusuku be-Champions League eLiverpool. Kodvwa lokubalulekile ngumzuzu lapha emuva, lapho abuyisela imali emuva emphakatsini: sikolwa, sibhedlela, i-inthanethi, tinsita temphakatsi. Ku-The Guardian, wachaza kutsi kungani akha sibhedlela, ngoba babe wakhe wagula, emaphandleni bekungekho sibhedlela, kufanele ahanjiswe, ekugcineni akazange abuye. Ngako ibhola kuye alisekho kukhuphuka kwakhe kuphela, kodvwa kuba yindlela yekubuyela ekhaya.

Angizange ngiye eBambali, kodvwa eDakar ngabona sitfunti sayo. Umfana emhlabatsini udlala ibhola, umtimba wakhe uyabheka, kuhamba kwakhe kufana naMané ngesandla sekuncele; labanye bantfwana babuka, emehlo abo akhanya. Umtsengisi, umshayeli, umnikati wendzawo yekudla ngesikhatsi bacoca ngeLicembu Lesive, lizwi labo bekungasilo 'bona,' kodvwa 'tsine.' Igama le-Lions of Teranga lilungile: Teranga kuhlonipha tivakashi, kuba ngumphakatsi; libhubesi kugcabha, kuvikela indzawo. Ibhola eSenegal akusikho kungcebeleka kwemgqibelo, kodvwa yindlela yekuhlanganisa umphakatsi, kukubona, yindlela lapho emadolobha nemaphandleni etibona ngakhona.

Ngalobo busuku bekugcina eDakar, ngaphindze ngaya elwandle. Sibusiso besibhakabhaka, emalambu enkundleni akekho, bantfwana bebangafuni kuma. Ibhola laginqika etitfuntini, ngesinye sikhatsi liphephulwa lwandle, ngesinye sikhatsi likhahlelwe emagagasini. Kukhashane i-Atlantic yayimnyama, ifana nalolwandle lunye ngephandle kwe-Gorée Island; emuva kwami lidolobha likhanya, ifana nekukhanya lokubuyiswa ngemasawoti e-Lac Rose. Luhambo lwaseSenegal olukhumbulekako, akusikho kutsi indzawo itsite ihle kangakanani, kodvwa kutsi kancane kancane uyabona: lelive liniketa ibhola kuhlukumezeka, kusebenta, kuhlonipha tivakashi, nemaphupho. Ucabanga kutsi ulandzela uMané, kodvwa kamuva uyabona, uMané wenta nje lokwase kwatiwa yiSenegal kusukela kadzeni, kodvwa ngekukhuluma lokukhulu: ibhola umuntfu alikhatelako, ekugcineni kufanele libuyele etinyaweni tawo wonkhe umuntfu.