Yawon Buɗe Ido Senegal: Yadda Ƙwallo Ɗaya Ke Dinke Ƙasa Tare

Sautin farko na yawon buɗe ido na Senegal, ba raƙuman ruwa ba ne, ko lasifikar filin jirgin sama, amma sautin ƙwallon da ke bugun bango. Mota daga filin jirgin sama na Blaise Diagne zuwa Dakar, gefen hanya akwai bishiyar baobab da allunan talla da iska ta fasa; bayan shiga birni, iskar teku ba zato ba tsammani ta yi gishiri, zirga-zirga ma ba zato ba tsammani ta rasa iyaka. Motocin haya, karusan doki, babura, masu sayarwa, da masu tafiya kamar wasa ne babu alkalin wasa, kowa yana neman hanyarsa, amma ba safai suke yin karo da gaske ba. Da maraice a bakin teku na Yoff, yara suna sanya silifas biyu su zama ƙofar ƙwallo, suna bugawa a kan yashi mai danshi har duhu. Babu ciyawar roba, babu rigunan wasa, tsohuwar ƙwallo ce kawai da ƙungiyar yara maza suna ihu har murya ta karye. A wannan lokacin na fahimta, abin da ake kira ƙwallon ƙafa + yawon buɗe ido, a Senegal ba 'kallon wasa ɗaya yayin tafiya' ba ne, shiga ƙasa ce ta hanyar ƙwallo ɗaya.

Ƙwallon ƙafa na titin Dakar yana da sauri, kamar numfashin wannan birni. Ƙwallon yana mirgina ta gefen keken sayar da kofi, ta gefen ƙafar dattijo mai gyara tarun kifi, idan ya mirgina zuwa tsakiyar hanya, direba zai ɗan buga ƙaho, yaro ya dawo da ƙwallon, wasan ya ci gaba. Wani yana sanye da lamba 10 ta Mané, wani yana sanye da koren rigar ƙungiyar ƙasa ta Koulibaly, wasu kuma babu takalmi. Ka tambaye su wa suka fi so, amsar kusan ba za a yi kuskure ba: Mané. Wannan suna a Dakar ba tauraro ba ne, kamar kalmar sirri ce ta kowa. Wani mai sayar da riguna ya gaya mini, Mané ya fito daga Bambali a kudu, daga baya ya zo makarantar Génération Foot ta Dakar, sa'an nan Faransa, Austria, Southampton, Liverpool, "amma bai manta da gida ba." Ya faɗi wannan jimla yayin da yake miƙe rigar sosai, kamar yana nuna tutar ƙasa.

Washegari zuwa Tsibirin Gorée, sautin ƙwallon ƙafa ba zato ba tsammani an ɗauke shi. Daga tashar jirgin ruwa ta Dakar jirgin ruwa yana ɗaukar minti ashirin kawai, amma hayaniyar birni kamar ruwan teku ya katse ta. Gidaje a tsibirin ruwan hoda ne, rawaya-fari, furannin bougainvillea na rataye a kan bango, suna da kyau har kusan suna sa mutum ya ji damuwa. Sa'an nan ka shiga Maison des Esclaves, ka shiga waɗancan ɗakunan dutse masu ƙasa, danshi, da kunkuntar, a nan ne ka fahimci inda wannan damuwar ta fito. Abin da ake kira 'Ƙofar Rashin Komawa' tana fuskantar Tekun Atlantika, a waje da ƙofa babu komai sai teku mai haske mai ɓatar da ido. Babu wani tarihin mulkin mallaka da zai yi sauƙi saboda an yi masa fenti mai kyau. Tsayawa a wurin, ba zato ba tsammani na tuna da sautin ƙafafun yaran da ke bin ƙwallo a bakin teku na Dakar: ta yaya ƙasa za ta sake faɗin 'mu waye?' daga tarihin ɗauka, suna, da ƙwacewa?

Amsar da Senegal ke bayarwa, sau da yawa ba jawabi ba ne, abinci ne, kofin shayi, ko wasa. Bayan na koma Dakar, a wani ƙaramin gidan abinci na ci thiéboudienne, kifi, tumatir, karas, rogo, da shinkafa suna cikin babban faranti. Wani mutum da ke gefen tebur ya ga ina ɗan wahala da cokali, ya yi murmushi ya nuna mini in yi amfani da hannu, in ɗanɗana shinkafa da kifi tare. Talabijin yana sake kunna tarihin Kofin Afirka, lokacin da aka kai hari zuwa yankin fanalti, kowa a cikin shagon ya ɗaga kai lokaci ɗaya. A wannan daƙiƙar, baƙo, harshe, da ƙa'idodin cin abinci ba su da muhimmanci. Ƙwallon ƙafa ta sanya mu cikin ɗaki ɗaya na ɗan lokaci, kamar dai muddin ƙwallon yana mirgina, koyaushe za a iya samun alkiblar gama gari.

Tafkin Retba a ƙarƙashin hasken rana ba shi da cikakkiyar kamannin hoto. Mazauna wurin sun ce, launin tafkin yana canjawa bisa yanayi, matakin gishiri, da matakin ruwa, wani lokaci ruwan hoda yana bayyana sosai, wani lokaci kawai yana da tattausan launin toka na fure. Amma abin da ke sa mutum ya tuna da shi ba launi ba ne, gishiri ne. Masu aikin gishiri suna tsaye cikin ruwa har ƙugu, suna kwashe lu'ulu'in gishiri cikin jirgin ruwa, fatar jikinsu an shafa da man shea mai kauri don kariya daga gishiri. A bakin teku tulun gishiri fari fat kamar dusar ƙanƙara, iska ta buso, leɓe ma sai an ji gishiri. A nesa masu yawon buɗe ido suna shiga ruwa suna iyo, dariya tana da sauƙi; masu aikin gishiri suna ci gaba da sunkuyawa, motsinsu ya tsaya kamar rubutun agogo. Wannan wuri yana tunatar da kai, hoton tafiya yana ɗaukar daƙiƙa ɗaya kawai, amma rayuwa tana buƙatar maimaitawa na shekaru masu yawa. Kyawun Senegal, koyaushe yana ɗaure da aiki, jira, da haƙuri.

Saboda haka ne labarin Mané ya zama mai nauyi na musamman a nan. Ba gwanin da aka tattara shi a hankali daga makarantu masu wadata ba ne, yaro ne daga Tambacounda zuwa Casamance, waccan Senegal ta ƙauye da ta fi shiru. Wurin da ke nesa da fitilu, amma kusa da ƙwallon ƙafa. Jar ƙasa na Bambali, hamayyar iyali, zuwa Dakar yana ɗan shekara goma sha biyar don bin mafarki, gwajin Génération Foot, daren Champions League na Liverpool, wannan hanya idan aka rubuta ta a matsayin labarin ƙarfafawa kawai za ta yi sauƙi. Abin da ke da muhimmanci shi ne bayan ya shahara ya dawo da kuɗi zuwa ƙauye: makaranta, asibiti, intanet, kayayyakin jama'a. A hirar da jaridar The Guardian ta yi da shi, ya bayyana dalilin gina asibiti, domin lokacin yana yaro mahaifinsa ya yi rashin lafiya, babu asibiti a ƙauye, dole a kai shi wani wuri, daga ƙarshe bai dawo ba. Don haka ƙwallon ƙafa a jikinsa ta daina zama hanyar tashi na mutum kawai, ikon komawa gida ne.

Ban tafi Bambali ba, amma a kan titunan Dakar na ga inuwarta. Wani yaro a kan yashi yana buga ƙwallo, jikinsa ya karkata gaba, motsinsa yana kama da Mané yana yankewa daga hagu zuwa ciki; ƙananan yara a kusa suna kallo, idanunsu suna haskakawa kamar suna kallon gaba. Masu sayarwa, direbobi, masu gidajen abinci suna magana game da ƙungiyar ƙasa, yarensu ba 'su' ba ne, 'mu' ne. Laƙabin 'Zakin Teranga' daidai ne: Teranga baƙunci ne da kuma al'umma; Zaki girman kai ne da kuma tsayuwar kare wani yanki. Ƙwallon ƙafa a Senegal ba nishaɗin ƙarshen mako ba ne, maɗaɗɗen al'umma ce, asali ne, hanya ce da birane da ƙauyuka ke tabbatar da juna.

Daren da ya rage kafin in bar Dakar, na sake komawa bakin teku. Sama ta yi duhu, kusa da filin wasa babu fitila, yara har yanzu ba su yarda su tsaya ba. Ƙwallon yana mirgina cikin inuwa, wani lokaci iskar teku tana karkatar da shi, wani lokaci harbi ɗaya ya tura shi cikin layin raƙuman ruwa. A nesa Tekun Atlantika duhu ne, kamar tekun da ke waje da waccan ƙofar a Tsibirin Gorée; a baya birni yana haskakawa, kamar hasken da tulun gishiri na Tafkin Retba ke nunawa. Abin da ya fi ɗorewa a yawon buɗe ido na Senegal, ba yadda wani wuri yake da kyau ba, amma za ka fara fahimta a hankali: wannan ƙasa ta ba da rauni, aiki, baƙunci, da buri ga ƙwallo ɗaya ta fassara. Kana tsammanin kana bin Mané, daga baya ka gano, Mané kawai ya fi ƙarfi faɗin abin da Senegal ta riga ta sani: ƙwallon da mutum ya harba, a ƙarshe dole ya koma ƙafafun kowa.