For my last afternoon for Petra (Petra), one Bedouin boy give me cup of tea—e say im grandpa see Lawrence (Lawrence).

For my last afternoon for Petra (Petra), one Bedouin boy give me cup of tea—e say im grandpa see Lawrence

Di last meter of di Siq. Di narrow rock channel burst open after 1.2 kilometers—Al-Khazneh (Al-Khazneh). No be for photo, no be for National Geographic cover, no be for Indiana Jones film—e really dey there, cut into two halves by morning light wey come from rock crack, one side be rose gold, di other side still hide for shadow. Somebody behind me whisper 'Alhamdulillah' for Arabic. I stand there, dey hesitate between breathing and holding breath for some seconds.

Then I turn back look di Siq—dat rock channel wey I just walk through, wey horse and camel foot don smooth for two thousand years—and begin remember how all this start.

Three weeks before, I sit for one chair for Beijing watch World Cup qualifier match. Jordan team play against some opponent wey I no remember name. One banner flash for screen—'The Chivalrous' (di Knights)—and one flag wey I no know. I no know where Jordan (Jordan) dey, I no know wetin dem dey speak there, I no know why dis team call themselves 'di Knights'. Some people for audience dey sing national anthem wey no dey on key, camera pass through one Jordan fan face—e paint red, white, and black flag for im face, im eyes get something wey I think only dey appear after person win match. I no remember di match result. But I remember I open browser, type 'jordan travel'.

Amman (Amman) na city wey dem build on seven hills. Taxi come from airport dey climb hill, driver turn radio to Lebanese channel wey dey play old Fairuz song, then use translation app tell me: 'Amman road and Jordan people patience na di same thing—e dey twist and turn, but e go always reach.' E drop me for front of restaurant wey dem call Hashem—dis shop wey don open for more than sixty years never close, im menu get only three things: hummus, falafel, and bread. Waiter throw pile of bread on plastic tablecloth, talk something for fast Arabic. I no understand, but customer beside laugh translate: 'E say—first chop, then talk.'

Next morning six o'clock, I stand for entrance of Petra (Petra). If you get only one day for Jordan, you suppose give all your time to Petra (Petra). Every hundred meters of Siq (Siq) get different micro-climate—at entrance still get tourist noise, as you go deep, you go only hear wind and your own footstep. For rock wall, sometimes you see ancient shrine and water channel remains, stone don get shape like muscle from wind and water. Around meter 800, one Bedouin boy wey ride donkey pass me, turn head say: 'Soon.'

After di climax for end of Siq (Siq), I sit down for stone step directly opposite di Treasury (Treasury). Tourists dey busy take photo, post for Instagram, check guidebook page number. Only one person no move—one Bedouin boy wey be about thirteen or fourteen years old, wear red and white check headscarf, lean on stone pillar. E look me, then pour hot tea from flask give me. 'Mint tea,' e say, 'You don climb long, your water finish.' Tea sweet, get plenty sugar. I ask am how long e don live for Petra (Petra). E say: 'I dey here always. My grandpa dey here too. E say e see Lawrence.' E put down cup, point down—far away Monastery (Monastery) 800 steps—'If you want go there, go now. Afternoon too hot.'

Wadi Rum (Wadi Rum) night sky no need any big grammar. Bedouin guide use im foot draw jeep route for sand for next morning, then tell me story: dem family don live here for seven generations, each generation give desert new name. 'Desert no go change,' e say, 'but person wey dey look desert go change. So name must follow change.' E light one kerosene lamp hang outside tent—di only man-made light for fifty kilometers—then point to Milky Way direction: 'You see dat star belt, we call am 'camel eyelash'. I look am long time, think dis name better pass 'Milky Way'.

Dead Sea (Dead Sea) no get wave. You walk inside, water push you float, but when you try stand up, e feel heavier pass normal—all di gravity for world don concentrate for your ankle. I float for water for fifteen minutes, look Israel for di other side, look Jordan desert road behind, try put all di pieces of dis trip together. Jordan na country wey no get oil but still open door for more than three million refugees. Im business card na Petra (Petra), but im bone na patience. Dat patience wey turn stone into temple, turn desert into home, turn guest into honor.

Di day I leave, I go back to dat cafe for Amman (Amman). Owner recognize me, give me Arabic coffee—no sugar, get thick coffee ground for bottom. E use im finger dip di coffee wey spill for cup rim, draw small circle for table, say: 'Dis na Petra (Petra). You go come back.' I ask why. E point to Jordan team schedule wey dey wall. 'Because next time Jordan play match, you go watch.'