Urdun Tiqsiḍin: Deg Tmeddledt inu Tamegqrant Deg Petra, Yiwen n Yiweḥcic Abedwi Yefka-yi-d Taεkult n Watay — Yenna-yi-d Jeddi-s Yemlal Lawrence

Amiter aneggaru n Siq. Aεeddi n weẓru yeḍεan, mbeεd 1.2 ikilumitren, yeldi-d — d aha. Treasury. Maci deg yiwen n uḍris, maci ɣef yiwen n warrac n National Geographic, maci deg yiwen n usarem n Indiana Jones — tella tidet, tettwafruq s wezgen s tmegza n tfawt n tafrit i d-ikecmen seg yiwen n wekcan n weẓru, azgen d ureγ n laṭay, azgen mazal-it yeffer deg taluft. S deffer-iw, yiwen yesseǧǧil-d kra s Taεṛabt ddaw n wawal-is: Alhamdulillah. Qqimeγ din, deg wammas n weḥbas n wawal akked weḥbas n uneffus, i kra n tsinin.

Sinna mεiyeγ ɣer Siq — aεeddi n weẓru i yi-kkiγ kan, leεrẓa-s tettwakres s yisiḍan n snat n twinas n yiseggasen n useεεed n leγmal — bdiγ ad mmektiγ wamek i yi-weṣleγ ɣer da.

Kṛad n yimalasen aya, lliγ qqimeγ ɣef yiwet n tγersut deg Beijing la ttmuqquleγ amennuγ n ukru n umaḍal. Jordan d yiwet n tarbaεt i werǧin mmektiγ isem-is. Yiwen n warrac d-ibanan ɣef leḥsab — 'The Chivalrous' — nnig n yiwen n weεlem i werǧin sɛiγ. Ur ẓriγ ara anda tella Jordan, ur ẓriγ ara tutlayt i d-sawalen din, ur ẓriγ ara ayγer i d-yessemma tarbaεt-is 'The Chivalrous.' Takamiṛat tεedda ɣer yiwen n umεiwen Ajrdani, udem-is yettwaker s wezggaγ, d umellal d uberkan n weεlem aγelnaw, yennaγ-d kra i weṛǧin walan ala mbeεd tarennawt. Ur mmektiγ ara agmuẓ n wemennuγ. Maca mmektiγ lliγ ldiγ asnik i d-nadiγ 'jordan travel.'

Amman d tamdint i d-ibanen ɣef sa n yidurar. Taksi tedwed seg wezawag, aneḥhaṛ iεdel aṛadyu s yiwen n wansay Alubnani la d-issellak tizlatin tiqburin n Fairuz, sinna ikteb deg yiwen n usnas n ussuγel: 'Iberdan n Amman d ṣṣbeṛ Ajrdani d yiwen — ttezzin-d ttezzin-d, maca dima awḍen.' Isers-iyi deg yiwen n utucci isem-is Hashem — yeldi azal n sḍiset n yiseggasen, werǧin yeṛẓem tiwwura-s, s yiwen n wemekkan n kṛad n tγawsiwin kan: ḥummus, filafil, aɣṛum n temzin. Aneqlac yewwet-d taεkubt n weγṛum ɣef tmacint-is n lastik, yessuffeγ-d adlis n teqbaylit s wawal. Ur fhimeγ ara, maca iεenǧa n ddat yesseγri-t-id s uneḍfeṛ: 'Yenna-d — ečč tura, awal d asawen.'

Ɣer sḍiset n tafrit n wass-iḍen, lliγ bdiγ ɣer tewwurt n Petra. Ma imir ur tesεiḍ ara ala yiwen wass deg Jordan, fk-it merra i Petra. Yal mit n yimitraten n Siq yesεa anezwi-s n yiman-is — taγect n yimeεiwen ɣer tewwurt, mbeεd asawen s daxel, kan aẓu d usiṭeḍ n yiḍaṛṛen. Isekraf iqburen d yiberdan n waman binen-d ɣef yiḥricen n weẓru, aẓru yettwaker s waẓu d waman ɣer talγa n yiεessiyen. Azal n tmanmitraten, yiwen n yiweḥcic Abedwi ɣef uγyul iyi-d iεeddan, yezzi-d aqeṛru-yis: 'Qrib ad taweḍḍeḍ.'

Mbeεd tlumast ɣef tagara n Siq, qqimeγ ɣef yiwet n tdabut n weẓru zdat n Treasury. Imeεiwen llan la ttaγen tiwlafin, la d-ttaznen ɣer Instagram, la tteḥeqqiten iγmaren deg yiεebbad-nsen n umuddu. Yiwen kan n wemdan ur yettεemmid ara — yiwen n yiweḥcic Abedwi, i wumi akka kṛaḍ neγ kuzet n yiseggasen, iceṭṭeḍ-id keffiyeh azeggaγ-d-amellal i d-iteṭṭfen aqeṛru-s, yettεakkez ɣef yiwen n wedras. Yiγ yi-muqel, sinna ismar-d atay zlawen seg yiwen n wutermus yeḥma, yefka-yi-t-id. 'Atay n nεneε,' yenna-d. 'Tikliḍ azal-nneγ, aman-ik keffan.' Atay yella d azizawen, yeccaṛ d ssukkeṛ. Sseqsaγ-t acḥal n yiseggasen i d-yazdeγ deg Petra. Yenna-d: 'Zik d ay-a. Jeddi daγen. Yenna-d yemlal Lawrence.' Yessers-d lekyas-is, yessewwed-d s beṛṛa — tmanmit timidurin i d-yessalin ɣer Udehhay — 'Ma tebγiḍ ad tedduḍ ɣer din, ddu tura. Samaca yettḥemma.'

Igenni n Wadi Rum deg yiḍ ur yeḥwaǧ ara awal. Imehli Abedwi yesbeγ abrid n uḥemmal n jeep ɣef tnezzayt n ṣṣbeḥ s yiḍaṛṛen-is deg rrmel, sinna yenna-yi-d yiwen n yimeslayen: tawacult-is tella tazder-d aγella zdat n sa n yitawsiwin, yerna yal tawsa tesεa ismawen-nniḍen i uneẓẓarf. 'Aneẓẓarf ur yettbeddil ara,' yenna-d, 'maca imdanen i d-yettmuqqulen aneẓẓarf ttabeddilen. Γef waya ismawen la ttabeddilen daγen.' Yesseγ-d tiferkit n lekarsin, yelleq-it-id s beṛṛa n uxeddam — d tafat tamerwayt kan i d-yettwasufγen deg tallit n semmuset ikilumitren — sinna yessewwed ɣer wezdu n yiwen. 'Tzewreḍ takkumt-aki n yitran? Nekni as-neqqaṛ d timeẓẓuγin n uγyul.' Muqleγ-t i tallit γezzifen, mmekteγ belli isem-a yewεer akk seg 'leεgebt n yiwen.'

Ilel Amettan ur yesεi ara lεiruǧen. Ttkecmeḍ, waman k-d-ssalin, maca mi ara tεerḍeḍ ad tbeddeḍ, tḥulfuḍ d aẓey akk seg zik — amzun akk tameẓẓi n wakal temmεemmar deg tiγemmar-inu. Qqimeγ la tteεumeyγ tazel n smuset n yidqiqan, la ttmuqquleγ ɣer Israel seg ssifa, εuyleγ ɣer webrid n uneẓẓarf n Jordan, la ttaṛameγ ad d-seḍṛeγ aγefriren n umuddu-a. Jordan d tamurt i werǧin teεreḍ, maca teldi tilisa-s i azal n kṛad umleyen n yifessayen. Aεessas ines d Petra, maca lεeḍam ines d ṣṣbeṛ. Ṣṣbeṛ i d-yessekksen aẓru ɣer yiqeccaren, i d-yeṭṭef aneẓẓarf d axxam, i yeṭṭfen inebgawen am lkanaf.

Deg wass i deg d-ffγeγ, uγaleγ ɣer yiwen n usnusnu-nni n Amman. Bab-is yeεreḍ-iyi-d, yebbiy-iyi-d taγlunt Taεṛabt — war ssukkeṛ, iǧǧuḍ-is d awzγar ddaw n yilemmaḍ. Yekcem-d adad-is deg lqahwa i d-ikecmen seg weqcic n lekyas, yesbeγ tasekkurt tamecṭuḥt ɣef wemekkan n tdabut. 'Tagi d Petra,' yenna-d. 'Ad tuγaleḍ.' Sseqsaγ-t ayγer. Yessewwed ɣer usetla n tcaεurt n tbuγalin n Jordan i d-yettwaεleq ɣef leḥyuḍ. 'Imi tikkelt nniḍen mi ara turaren Jordan, ad d-tmuqleḍ.'