South Africa Labarai: Yawon shakatawa a Afirka ta Kudu: Ciwo da kuma bikin

Wurin da yawon buɗe ido na Afirka ta Kudu ya fara da gaske, ba a filin jirgin sama ba, ko kuma lokacin da aka fara ganin Dutsen Tebur （Table Mountain / Tafelberg） daga taga otal ɗin ba, sai dai a lokacin da jirgin ruwan Robben Island (Robben Island) ya fara tashi daga bakin teku. Iskar teku ta Cape Town （Cape Town / Kaapstad / iKapa） tana da ƙarfi, kamar hannu yana tura mutum zuwa baya. A bayan jirgin, V&A Waterfront (V&A Waterfront) yana haskaka, amma Dutsen Tebur ya kwanta a hankali a bayan birnin, gizagizai na gangarowa daga kan dutse, kamar fadowar ruwa mai fari da ke zubowa a hankali a kan saman mai lebur. Mai jagora ya ce ana kiran wannan gizagizai da tufafin tebur a gida. Na kalli yadda yake rufe birnin, na fahimci: kyawun Afirka ta Kudu ba ya ɓoye zafi, amma yana barin zafi da hasken rana su kasance tare.

Abu mafi nauyi a tsibirin Robben Island (Robben Island) shine shiru. Dakin kurkukun da Mandela ya zauna ba shi da ban mamaki, kunkuntar, ƙasa, mai tsabta, akwai katifa siriri a ƙasa, kuma kwano na ƙarfe a kusurwa. Masu ziyara suna layi suna wucewa ƙofa, ana rage sautin taku. Jagoran tsohon ɗan siyasa bai yi ta jin daɗi ba, ya nuna dutsen da ake hako dutse, yana cewa mutane da yawa sun lalata idanunsu saboda hasken rana a can. Mandela daga baya ya fita daga kurkuku, bai mayar da shekaru ashirin da bakwai zuwa ramuwa ba, amma ya mayar da shi teburin tattaunawa. Wannan yana kama da jimla da za ta fito a cikin tarihin rayuwar manyan mutane, amma tsayawa a gaban wannan ɗan ƙaramin ɗakin kurkuku, ya zama kamar yanke shawara mai wahala da mutum ya yi wa kansa: Ba zan bar ƙiyayya ta ci gaba da sarrafa wannan ƙasar ba.

Komawa Cape Town （Cape Town / Kaapstad / iKapa）, launukan Bo-Kaap (Bo-Kaap) suna cire mutum daga launin toka. Titin da ke ƙarƙashin Dutsen Signal (Signal Hill) ba su da tuddai da yawa, amma gidaje suna haskakawa fiye da juna: kore na mint, ruwan hoda na fure, rawaya na lemun tsami, shuɗi na teku, kamar wani ya warware 'yanci ya zama fenti, ya shafa a bango gida-gida. Wannan yanki ya kasance al'ummar Cape Malay, kuma kakannin su da yawa bayi ne da aka kawo zuwa Cape of Good Hope (Cape of Good Hope) ta hanyar cinikin mallaka. Wasu suna cewa bayan an soke bauta, mazaunan sun sami damar mallakar gidajensu, don haka suka shafa bangon fari da launuka mafi haske. Wannan ba don masu yawon buɗe ido su ɗauki hoto ba, amma don gaya wa duniya: Ƙofata, tagata, rayuwata, daga yanzu ba wani ne ya tsara su ba.

Amma Afirka ta Kudu ba za ta bar ka ka tsaya a cikin katunan waya ba. A kan hanyar zuwa Soweto （Soweto）, manyan gine-ginen Johannesburg （Johannesburg） suna komawa a hankali, a gefen titi akwai gidajen ƙarfe, wuraren sayar da nama gasasshen, shagunan gyaran mota, da bangon zane-zane. Titin Vilakazi (Vilakazi Street) yana cike da jama'a, akwai masu sayar da kyaututtuka a wajen gidan Mandela (Mandela House), kuma 'yan yara a kusa suna buga ƙwallon ƙafa a cikin ƙura. Ƙofar ƙwallon dutse biyu ne, layin iyaka ta hanyar tunani. Wani ɗan yaro sanye da tsohuwar rigar Bafana Bafana, yana da saurin motsi a ƙafafunsa, bayan ya wuce abokin hamayya ya waiwaya yana murmushi. Suna buga ƙwallon ba kamar horo ba, amma kamar wani ilhami: a kan fili mara kyau, suna ba da jikinsu ga farin ciki.

Jin daɗin Soweto （Soweto） ba abu ne mai sauƙi ba. Tarihin Hector Pieterson (Hector Pieterson Memorial) yana kusa, hotunan tashin dalibai na 1976 har yanzu suna sa mutum ya rasa magana. Afirka ta Kudu ƙasa ce da ke ciwo kuma tana murna, kuma ƙwallon ƙafa shi ne mafi yawan bayyanar gaskiya. Ba ta yin kamar raunuka ba su wanzu ba, kuma ba ta ƙyale mutum ya ci gaba da kallon raunuka kawai ba. Lokacin da ƙwallon ya fara birgima, kabilanci, harshe, kuɗi, tarihi duk suna nan, amma akalla na minti casa'in, mutane suna son yin ihu zuwa hanya ɗaya.

Da yamma zuwa Stellenbosch (Stellenbosch), gonakin inabi suna buɗe wani nau'in Afirka ta Kudu a gare ka. Hasken rana a cikin kwari yana taushi, gangunan itacen oak, gidajen farar bango, da kurangar inabi da aka gyara, duk suna da kyau kamar tsohon zane na Turai. Pinotage a cikin gilashin yana da ɗanɗanon taba da 'ya'yan itace masu duhu, ma'aikata a nesa suna gama aikin yini, inuwarsu tana ƙara tsawo da faɗuwar rana. Kyawun nan yana da ɗanɗano mai rikitarwa: mulkin mallaka, ƙasa, ma'aikata, rarraba arziki, duk suna ɓoye a bayan kwalban giya. Faɗuwar rana tana da taushi, amma taushi ba mafita ba ne. Abin da Afirka ta Kudu ta fi tunawa da shi shi ne ba ta taɓa sayar maka da shimfidar wuri da tarihi daban ba.

A wannan dare, a kan ciyawar gonar inabi, wani yana waƙa a hankali, bakin gilashin yana nuna hasken zinari na ƙarshe, kamar yana haskaka tsohon rauni ya zama mai laushi.

Washegari da safe, sake hawa Dutsen Tebur （Table Mountain / Tafelberg）, gajimare yana fadowa daga kan dutse, birni, teku, Tsibirin Robben (Robben Island) da gonakin inabi masu nisa duk an matse su cikin babban taswira. Tsaye a kan dutse kallon Cape Town （Cape Town / Kaapstad / iKapa）, za ka ji wani fadi marar gaskiya: gefe guda teku, gefe guda birni, gefe guda tsohon kurkuku, gefe guda unguwanni masu launuka. Matsalar yawon buɗe ido na Afirka ta Kudu ma tana nan. Da wuya ka ce kawai yana da dadi, domin dadi yana kusa da rashin daidaito; kuma da wuya ka ce kawai yana da nauyi, domin nauyi yana gefen mutane suna waƙa, rawa, bude gasa, buga ƙwallo zuwa faɗuwar rana.

Don haka lokacin da gasar cin kofin duniya ta 2026 ta kawo labarin cewa Bafana Bafana (Bafana Bafana) sun mamaye shiga 32 mafi kyau, ban yi mamakin cewa ƙasar za ta tafasa kamar an sake kunna wuta ba. An cire ƙwallon ƙafa na Afirka ta Kudu daga filin wasan duniya ta hanyar wariyar launin fata, kuma ya yi shiru da yawa, ya fita, an raina shi. Amma a wannan dare, mashaya, tasi, rediyo, da kantin kofi a kusurwar Soweto （Soweto） duk suna kiran suna ɗaya. Farfaɗowar Bafana Bafana (Bafana Bafana) ba labarin wasanni kawai ba ne, kamar sanarwar ƙasa da ta yi jinkiri: Muna nan, za mu iya yin rashin nasara shekaru da yawa, amma ba za mu yi rashin halarta har abada ba.

Daga baya na gamu da direba sanye da rigar tawagar ƙasa a titin Cape Town （Cape Town / Kaapstad / iKapa）. Ya ce, gasar cin kofin duniya ta 2010 ta sa duniya ta ga Afirka ta Kudu, kuma wannan 32 mafi kyau na 2026 ya sa Afirka ta Kudu ta sake ganin kanta. A wajen motar, bangon Bo-Kaap (Bo-Kaap) mai launuka ya wuce da sauri, gajimaren Dutsen Tebur （Table Mountain / Tafelberg） ya fara zubowa. Ya ƙara muryar rediyo, mai sharhi yana sake buga kwallon nasara, muryarsa ta ɓata da farin ciki. Ban fahimci jimlolin da suka haɗa Yaren Zulu (Zulu) da Ingilishi ba, amma na fahimci wannan dariyar.

Lokacin da na bar Afirka ta Kudu, ba wani wuri ɗaya ba ne a zuciyata, sai jerin hotuna da ke janyo juna: shirun da ba ya watse a cikin kurkukun Tsibirin Robben (Robben Island), launukan da suke magana da ƙarfi a bangon Bo-Kaap (Bo-Kaap), ƙafafun yaran Soweto （Soweto） suna bin ƙwallo a cikin ƙura, giyar da ba a gama sha ba a ƙarƙashin faɗuwar rana a Stellenbosch (Stellenbosch), da yadda gajimaren Dutsen Tebur （Table Mountain / Tafelberg） ya rufe birni a hankali. Afirka ta Kudu ba wuri mai sauƙi ba ne, amma wuri ne da zai sa mutum ya yi zurfi. Yana koya wa matafiya abu ɗaya: sulhu ba manta da abin da ya gabata ba ne, amma a tuna da shi, kuma har yanzu a yarda a mika ƙwallo ga mai kusa.