Cape Verde Ur Isawal Ara Ɣef Tkarḍiwin—Tεum ɣef Yizḍan n Morna

Asafag yessers deg Praia Airport ɣef tegzirt n Santiago, d Cape Verde ur k-yessewham s lebni iεlayen. S beṛṛa n tzewwut: idurar iwraɣen, aẓu d akiwan. Ayen akk i k-d-yemmalen anda i tersed, yettas-d mi ara teffɣed seg tmacint — imesli. Aεeggal sεan lḥal yettγimi ɣef yiwen n lḥaḍ, yettεawad ɣef yiwen n snitṛa aqbur. Lεin n yilel tella deg yizḍan; usewwel ur yεawaded ara, maca aẓawan d nṣaḥ.

Tawect n Cesária Évora teffγed seg uṛadyu n taksi. Temmut deg 2011, maca deg Cape Verde tawect-is tikkas akk snat n tikkal yal asegwas. Aneḥhaṛ yessiwel s uṛadyu s tmert-is yenna-d kra s Tbuṛtuglit i d-yetteddun d Takriyulit — ur fhimeɣ ara yal tawalt, maca fhimeɣ zzux deg-s. Morna, yenna-d. Sinna yessali taṣṣuṭ.

Cape Verde tezga-d azal n 570 ikilumitren deg temnaḍt n umalu n Senegal deg Ugaraw Aṭlasi, mraw n tegzirin ituranin, azal n 600,000 n yimezdaɣen. Tamurt zzaret imi aṭas n tkarḍiwin tiweḥranin ur t-ssebɣarent ara ula d aεeggen. Maca ma yezrin fell-ak tesliḍ i morna anda i tella — taẓuri-nni n leḥzen i yettεallaqen ger n fadu taburtuglit akked samba tabṛazilit — tẓerrḍ belli wemkan-a ur yezmir ara ad yili d ameẓẓi.

Deg yiḍ tameddit-inu tamezwarut deg usaggu n Mindelo, kecmeγ ar yiwen n uxerban isem-is Cafe Musica. Leḥyuḍ ttlint-d d isefka n warrac n Cesária Évora, tawlaft n tbuγalin tadigant, akked uγewwaγ i d-yuran s ufus: Cachupa, tasrest i yeẓẓanen, aεeqqi n grogue. Acennay d tameṭṭut deg tallit n kuzet iseggasen, teks adukkan, tiṭṭaṭin tuddment. Izḍan n snitṛa ttbeddilen teγmert-nsen deg uẓu n trekkit, maca ula d yiwen ur yehric. Ixeddamen n usaggu ḥebsen aεemmuḍ n yimrinen, ttεekkazen ɣef leḥyuḍ n yilel ad slen. Agrud yeqqim deg tewwurt la yettmuqqul — ɣer yiḍaṛṛen-is, tacaεurt i yersan.

Azekka nni ddan-d s Pico do Fogo. Ddaw yiḍaṛṛen-iw: lava taberkant, tasaṛit yerna terked, iseddi n tsebbad-inu ssuffuγen-d ajeγlal iqeddec. Imehli yenna-d belli aburkam aneggaru yufeγ deg 2014, yesseγli snat n tuddarin, maca qrib akk imezdaγen uγalen-d. 'Tagi d tegzirt-nneγ,' yenna-d. 'Aburkam yettili am γeṛs aεdaw-nneγ — maca ur tettεεadda ara akken kan imi aεdaw-ik yergagi.' Seg wezgen n ukabar, sεeddawt n tewwut ɣef Ugaraw Aṭlasi, fhimeɣ i tikkelt tamezwarut d acu ay d tanummi n yigraw n tegzirin war tagara — seg was i geẓriren, ala ilel d wayeḍ.

Deg Santa Maria Beach deg Sal, arrac ttsedtiyen tacaεurt s yiḍaṛṛen n tsebba. Tacaεurt tella d taqburt, iclem-is meẓẓiy-it, maca wamek i t-ssaweḍen tεeddi tella am tẓuri-nniḍen n morna. Yiwen n weqcic lqah-is tebḥat yesεa uṭṭun ɣef tallunt — ur yelli d Messi neγ d Ronaldo, maca d Ryan Mendes, amεeddi n tbuγalin taγelnawt n Cape Verde. Yessiwel ɣer tqendart: 'Ilul deg Mindelo. Am nekni.' Ur yeβεid ara, tacεayalt n Blue Sharks tettbeγiγi s ddaw n wezru ɣef yiwen n usebtar deg weftis.

Ucci d tasarut taneggarut. Cachupa — d uṛumin n sekkin yettwaran si zik, d urti, yifayen, tazegzut akked tselma neγ aksum — yella la yettεebba seg 6 n ṣṣbeḥ. Deg wezzenz, tilawin ttγimint ɣef iγersawen yettwazdaren, ssekciment d urti s wawal ur neẓri s tiṭ. Ttmeslayent s Takriyulit, tikkelt ar tayeḍ ttalint deg taḍsa. Tawart tameqrant i d-yessinuzuyen tazegzut teyya-yi-d tamkelt tameẓẓayt n cachupa, war leḥsab. 'Ayyaw, qrib,' tenna-d s Tbuṛtuglit s lemεani. 'Lbenna n Cape Verde yeḥwaǧ-as akud.' Qeddeε azgen n usaεa ad akemmele tamkelt-inu, fhimeɣ belli ur tettεaraḍ ara ɣef tseggast.

Deg ṣṣbeḥ n tuffγa, uγaleγ ɣer Cafe Musica deg Mindelo. Axerban mazal ur teldi ara. Aẓu n yilel yettγimi ɣef yiwen n warrac aqbur ɣef tewwurt. Seg lbeεd, ṣṣut n uεemmuḍ n ubabu-nniḍen yessuffeγ deg usaggu. Aεeggal sεan lḥal la yessiseḥbib aqjun-is, iεedda, iy-iwala la ttmuqquleγ ar warrac n Cesária Évora, yeḥbes. S Teglizit yenna-d: 'Tessened taεebbaṛt-is akk tettyussan? Sodade — assunfu ur nesεi talγa.' Sinna ikemmel abrid-is. Bdiγ zdat usaggu d ilem, sudden fhimeγ talγa timekkust n morna: Cape Verde ur telli d tamurt i yezmer ad yettwaglem s tkarḍa. Tettwaglem kan s yimesli, s lbenna, s waẓu n yilel. Am sodade s timmad-is — teẓrid belli tella, maca ur tzemred ad d-tinid anda ay telli talγa-s.