Qatar Labarai: Eh, Za Ka Iya Yin Qatar Da Dala $150 A Rana—Ga Rasit ɗin

Idan kana zaune a wani wuri tsakanin Dubai da Doha kana ƙoƙarin yanke shawara wane birni za ka zaɓa don haɗin jirginka, ba ka buƙatar ƙarin bincike bayan karanta wannan. Wannan ba rubutu ba ne na waƙa game da Qatar kasancewa ƙasa ce ta Gabas ta Tsakiya mai sihiri. Wannan gwaji ne na zahiri na abin da za ka iya gani cikin sa'o'i ashirin da huɗu a Doha, nawa ake kashewa, da kuma ko yana da daraja. Hukuncin farko: idan kana da fiye da sa'o'i takwas na jiran jirgi kuma kana shirye ka bar filin jirgin, amsar ita ce — eh, yana da daraja.

Qatar ƙaramar mashigin ruwa ce da ke shiga Tekun Fasha, kusan kilomita murabba'i 11,500 — ƙarami fiye da Beijing. Ta zama ɗaya daga cikin ƙasashe mafi arziki a Duniya saboda filin iskar gas mafi girma a duniya kuma ta ɗauki Kofin Duniya mafi ƙanƙanta a tarihi a 2022. A 2026, Maroons — ƙungiyar ƙwallon ƙafa ta Qatar — sun dawo matakin neman cancanta, kuma Filin Jirgin Sama na Hamad International Airport a Doha ya ci gaba da zama jijiyar wucewa ga masu tafiya marasa ƙidaya da ke zirga-zirga tsakanin Asiya, Turai, da Afirka. Tambayar asali: lakabin Qatar shine 'mai tsada.' Amma shin wannan lakabin daidai ne? Bari in amsa da rasit.

Labari mai daɗi na farko kan manufofin shiga: Qatar tana ba da izinin shiga ba tare da biza ba ko biza a lokacin isowa ga 'yan ƙasa na fiye da ƙasashe ɗari — sake dubawa da ƙasarku kafin yin booking. Samun daga Hamad International Airport zuwa tsakiyar birni zaɓi ne tsakanin hanyoyi biyu: jirgin ƙasa na ƙarƙashin ƙasa (tafiya ɗaya kusan $3, Layin Red Line kai tsaye zuwa tashar Msheireb, minti talatin) ko tasi (kusan $15–25 ya danganta da inda kake zuwa da lokaci). Ga shawarar farko: idan kana da sa'o'i ashirin da huɗu kawai, sayi tikitin yini na jirgin ƙasa na $3. Jirgin ƙasa na Doha yana ɗaya daga cikin mafi tsabta tsarin sufuri na jama'a a duniya — ban ga ko guntun shara ɗaya a dandamalin ba.

Ƙarfe huɗu na safe a Souq Waqif. Yawancin mutane suna rubutu game da Souq Waqif da rana ko hargowar yamma. Zan yi rubutu game da shi da ƙarfe 4 na safe. Da ƙarfe huɗu na safe, Souq Waqif yana rufewa. Mai sayar da kayan yaji yana zaune a cikin rumfarsa, yana kallon maimaitawar Premier League a wayarsa — sunan Almoez Ali yana haskakawa a kan allo. Wani kyanwa ya fito daga cikin tarin kafet, ya yi mini kallon taka-tsantsan, ya ci gaba da sintiri na dare. Masu yawon buɗe ido na ƙarshe suna ciniki da mai sayarwa kan maganaɗisu da gyale — 'Uku kan goma, farashi na ƙarshe, na rufe yanzu.' Iskar har yanzu tana ɗauke da ragowar gasasshen nama da shayi mai zaƙi waɗanda ba za su ƙare ba har na wasu 'yan sa'o'i. Souq ɗin da ƙarfe huɗu na safe yana da gaskiya ta musamman — sa'ar kafin barci — lokacin da duk launukansa da ihunsa suka ja baya, suka bar ɗan ƙaramin gajiya da shuru da ke mallakar souq ɗin kansa.

Ga lissafin gaske na gwajin Doha na sa'o'i ashirin da huɗu: Jirgin ƙasa na zagaye daga Hamad Airport $6 / Shiga Museum of Islamic Art $14 / Dabbino da karak chai a Souq Waqif kafin wayewar gari $7 / Abincin rana: gasasshen rago tare da shinkafar machboos a gidan abincin Al Terrace $18 / Rabin yini yawon Hamada da Inland Sea (tare da jagora, gami da hawan duwatsu da abin hawa 4x4 da abin sha) $55 / Ruwa, kayan ciye-ciye, da ƙaramin abin tunawa na souq $12 / Jimla = $112. Eh, ban ma kai $150 ba. Idan ka tsallake yawon hamada — ka ce kana da sa'o'i goma sha biyu kawai — za ka iya yi da ƙasa da $50. Idan kana son kwana a otel mai taurari huɗu, ƙara $120–180. Amma idan kana kashe lokaci ne kawai tsakanin jirage biyu, shawan spa na kyauta da wuraren hutu na filin jirgin sun fi yadda kake tunani — kuma kyauta ne.

Khor Al Adaid, Inland Sea, hatsariya ce ta yanayin ƙasa — duwatsun yashi suna nutsewa kai tsaye cikin ruwan shuɗi marar zurfi na Tekun Fasha. Yayin da Toyota Land Cruiser ke ratsa duwatsun a kusurwar digiri talatin, kiɗan da ke fitowa daga lasifikokin direba Hassan ba 'yanayin Gabas ta Tsakiya' ba ne da za ka yi tsammani — sharhin Premier League ne na Brentford da Crystal Palace. 'Shin 'yan Qatar suna kallon gasar gida?' Na tambaya. 'A'a,' ya ce, yana nuna hamada a cikin madubin baya. ''Yan Qatar suna kallon Premier League ne kawai — sai dai idan mu kanmu muka shiga Kofin Duniya.' Gadon 2022 ba kawai a cikin gine-ginen filayen wasa na Doha yake ba — yana cikin yadda talakawan wannan ƙasa ke sake tunani game da dangantakarsu da ƙwallon ƙafa.

Da ƙarfe shida na yamma, ina tsaye a gaban tagogin bene-zuwa-rufin Museum of Islamic Art. Layukan geometric na I.M. Pei sun sassaƙa sararin samaniyar Doha zuwa tsari mai kyau — a hagu, jiragen ruwa na gargajiya suna shawagi a bakin ruwa; a dama, fuskokin gilashi na West Bay CBD suna nuna faɗuwar rana ta hamada. Wani ma'aikacin gini ɗan Pakistan ya tsaya kusa da ni — har yanzu sanye da ratsin haske a kan rigar aikinsa — yana kallon daidai wannan sararin samaniya. Ya gaya mini cewa ya yi shekara goma sha biyu a Qatar kuma ya yi aiki a kan aƙalla biyar daga cikin hasumiyoyin West Bay. 'Shin iyalinka sun taɓa zuwa Doha?' Ya girgiza kai ya nuna manyan gine-ginen a waje: 'Sun ga hotuna. Babu kamar ainihin abin.' Wannan lokacin ba ya cikin kowane littafin jagorar tafiya, amma ita ce fuskar tafiya mafi gaskiya a Qatar — ɗayan gefen arziki shine mutanen da suke gina arzikin.

Na koma Hamad Airport da saura sa'o'i biyu zuwa jirgi na gaba. Shagon da ba a biya haraji ba yana tallata gyalen ƙungiyar Qatar — maroon mai zurfi, alamar Maroons an yi mata kwalliya a gefe ɗaya. Na sayi ɗaya. Ba don ni mai goyon bayansu ba ne — amma domin na yi sa'o'i ashirin da huɗu kawai a wannan ƙasa kuma na riga na ga fiye da yadda yawancin masu wucewa ke gani: kyanwa a cikin souq kafin wayewar gari, sharhin Premier League na direban hamada, sararin samaniyar ma'aikacin gini, rasit na $112.

To, shin Qatar tana da daraja? Ya danganta da abin da kake kwatanta ta da shi. Idan kana tashi daga Asiya musamman don hutu — sai dai idan kana da sha'awa ta musamman (fasahar Musulunci, zango a hamada, Formula 1), kwana uku a Doha na iya ji da tsada da gajeru. Amma idan kana wucewa tsakanin Asiya, Turai, da Afirka da taga na sa'o'i takwas zuwa ashirin da huɗu — amsar ita ce: bar filin jirgin. Qatar ba wurin da za ka ziyarta sau ɗaya a rayuwa ba ce. Amma tana iya zama wurin jiran jirgi na rayuwarka. Kuma kashe $112 don sa kanka ka tuna wucewa ciniki ne mafi kyau fiye da bacci a kan kujerar filin jirgin sama tsawon sa'o'i takwas.