Cape Verde

Local customs

• Cape Verde's 'island time' isna a joke, but the very rhythm o archipelago traivel. Ferries can be affected by wind, waves, loadin, an wather, an inland flights micht shift due tae wee airports, turnarounds, an seasonal passenger flows; dinna plan cross-island connections like ye'd time a city subway. In ma plannin, I aye leave a hauf-day buffer for ilka island change, an afore important flights, get back tae the departure island weel in advance—dinna try tae squeeze a Fogo volcano walk, Santo Antão hill road, or Sal return flight intae the same day.
• Afore takin portraits at markets, fishin ports, veelages, or beach fitbaa pitches, first mak a connection wi a smile, a nod, or a simple greetin. Cape Verdeans are generally freendly, but stallhauders, bairns, fishers, an fowk at wark shouldna be suddenly approached wi a telephoto lens; if they wave awa, turn awa, or look dootfu, pit the camera doun. A better wey is tae buy some fish or fruit first, hae a crack aboot the wather or fitbaa, an then ask if ye can tak a photo o the scene—that wey the picture will be mair natural, mair like a meetin on the road.
• Music bars arena juist performance spaces for tourists, but social spots whaur locals hae a crack, listen tae morna, coladeira, or funaná, an slip intae the nicht at a slow pace. Gin ye sit doun an listen for a while, order a drink, dinna block the gangway, an dinna keep usin the flash richt in front o the singer, that's mair seemly nor juist staunin at the door filmin video. Mindelo is especially guid for this: listen tae a sang or twa, wait till the atmosphere loosens up, then hae a word wi the staff or a neebour aboot Cesária Évora, the naitional team, or the next day's route.